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Would it mess anything up if I change one brake pad at a time?

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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #11  
WheelBrokerAng's Avatar
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Talking Good Video

Originally Posted by PAhonda
Here is a good video on how to do the rear brakes.

How To Replace Rear Disc Brakes (Full) - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
I use EricTheCarGuy often for myself when I need good information..

WheelBrokerAng
 
Old Oct 20, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #12  
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So anyone here have any special recommendations for brake lubricant?

The official manual says use M77 Assembly Paste. But I don't have nor want to buy that. Is there anything they sell at the auto parts store? Do I need more than one kind of paste, or can I just buy one kind of paste and apply it everywhere I need to on the caliper and the shims? I found these:
Permatex/2 pk. 7 g. (.247 oz.) ultra disc brake caliper lube pouch (20356) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com_
CRC/8 oz. (226.796 g.) brake and caliper synthetic grease (05359) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com_
AGS/.14 oz. (4 g.) Sil-Glyde brake lubricant (BK-1) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com_
Permatex/8 oz. (226.796 g.) brush-top ultra disc brake caliper lube (24110) | Brake Lube | AutoZone.com_

Any of you guys use one of these? Recommend any?

I'm kind of scared because ETCG says in the front disc brakes video that "grease" eats the boots so use silicone paste on the caliper slide pins. So I need to get silicone paste too AND brake lubricant grease? He also uses anti-seize instead of brake lube. What's the deal with that?

He also says that the springs need to not be bound up at 7:50 in the video below, but he never makes it clear where they belong and what "not bound up" means. Is it supposed to be in that little slot/viewing hole in the caliper?

 
Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:37 AM
  #13  
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If I pull the pins, I use silicone paste.

If you are working on the Honda, you don't need to worry about the springs.....you don't have them
 
Old Oct 21, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #14  
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I've used anti-seize compound (Permatex silver stuff) for a long time. Then I got some kind of brake grease (clear-blue silicone stuff) and that seems to work a bit better. But the anti-seize didn't screw up the boots or rubber seals.

About the springs binding up...
When you fit the new pads into the caliper frame, make sure they aren't wedged tight. Sometimes I have to file off the pads steel backing-plate a bit - maybe just the thickness of the paint. They should fit nice without rattling, but they still need to move when you release the brakes.
 
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