Brake/Fuel Repair leads to brake pad hissing
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
Brake/Fuel Repair leads to brake pad hissing
2000 Honda Accord EX, 2.3L 4-cy, 120,000 miles
My 2000 Honda Accord brake line rusted and leaked out all my brake fluid. I took it to a shop and they said I needed to replace all the brake lines and fuel lines (since they are right next to each other). I was told it would cost $700.
When I went to pick up the car, they said everything was working fine except that my rubber connector fuel line was leaking and needed to be replaced. I said my car was never leaking gas before I brought it to them, so obviously it was something they did while working on it, but they said they did not touch that area and maybe it was caused by the pressure of the new lines. They told me the new rubber fuel line would cost $70, but he would not charge me labor.
I went to pick up the car yesterday and this is what the bill said was replaced:
Fuel Hose at Fuel Rail to High Pres Line - $74.90
Return Line BD - $103.00
Evap Line BD - $138.82 (Note: I replaced my Evap system less than a year ago)
Pressure Line BD - $128.53
Brake lines from frnt to rear hoses w/ nuts - $46.60
Labor to install/bleed system - $297.50
I drove my car off the lot and the brake pedal felt very weak, like there was not a lot of pressure it in. You nearly had to put your foot to floor to stop the car. When the car is stopped, there is a hissing noise, like air is leaking out, coming from the brake pedal itself inside the car. I immediatley brought the car back, but the shop was closed and only the counter clerk was still there, so he said the mechanic would look at it today.
I did some research online and found out that it could be a bad bleed job, loose vaccum hoses, or the brake booster or brake master cylinder. Online it says if the brakes are soft and sinking, it is the master cylinder (which is what is happening), if the brakes are hard to push down, it is the brake booster. Obviously, I feel this place is trying to screw me now and has broken not only fuel hose which cause my $70, but that they will come back and say the brake booster needs to be replaced. Is this something they can damage during a brake/fuel line repair? How much should I expect to pay for brake booster? Should I just take my car somewhere else, or does this all seem legit?
My 2000 Honda Accord brake line rusted and leaked out all my brake fluid. I took it to a shop and they said I needed to replace all the brake lines and fuel lines (since they are right next to each other). I was told it would cost $700.
When I went to pick up the car, they said everything was working fine except that my rubber connector fuel line was leaking and needed to be replaced. I said my car was never leaking gas before I brought it to them, so obviously it was something they did while working on it, but they said they did not touch that area and maybe it was caused by the pressure of the new lines. They told me the new rubber fuel line would cost $70, but he would not charge me labor.
I went to pick up the car yesterday and this is what the bill said was replaced:
Fuel Hose at Fuel Rail to High Pres Line - $74.90
Return Line BD - $103.00
Evap Line BD - $138.82 (Note: I replaced my Evap system less than a year ago)
Pressure Line BD - $128.53
Brake lines from frnt to rear hoses w/ nuts - $46.60
Labor to install/bleed system - $297.50
I drove my car off the lot and the brake pedal felt very weak, like there was not a lot of pressure it in. You nearly had to put your foot to floor to stop the car. When the car is stopped, there is a hissing noise, like air is leaking out, coming from the brake pedal itself inside the car. I immediatley brought the car back, but the shop was closed and only the counter clerk was still there, so he said the mechanic would look at it today.
I did some research online and found out that it could be a bad bleed job, loose vaccum hoses, or the brake booster or brake master cylinder. Online it says if the brakes are soft and sinking, it is the master cylinder (which is what is happening), if the brakes are hard to push down, it is the brake booster. Obviously, I feel this place is trying to screw me now and has broken not only fuel hose which cause my $70, but that they will come back and say the brake booster needs to be replaced. Is this something they can damage during a brake/fuel line repair? How much should I expect to pay for brake booster? Should I just take my car somewhere else, or does this all seem legit?
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 84
From: Winston Salem, NC
have the bleed the brakes again... the hissing your hearing is vaccum going to the brake booster.
your pedal should be in the same location of stopping as it was before.
AS for your leaking fuel line.. .sometimes thing actually do break when you don't have them in your posssession ... as in, they had it in the shop and noticed it leaking.. be glad they found it and not a flame while your driving down the road.. and no fire extinquser.
Have them bleed the brakes again. .. then go from there.
Brian B
your pedal should be in the same location of stopping as it was before.
AS for your leaking fuel line.. .sometimes thing actually do break when you don't have them in your posssession ... as in, they had it in the shop and noticed it leaking.. be glad they found it and not a flame while your driving down the road.. and no fire extinquser.
Have them bleed the brakes again. .. then go from there.
Brian B
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
You mention with the EVAP line, that you replaced the EVAP system. Replacing the "EVAP system" normally means replacing the EVAP canister & a couple valves surrounding it. It very rarely includes replacing that EVAP line. The line they're talking about is a steel tube (exactly like the fuel supply & return tubes) running down the underside of the floorpan. It's located in the same tray as the other 2 fuel lines & 2 brake lines.
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