1995 Accord V-6 Exhaust pipe repairs
#1
1995 Accord V-6 Exhaust pipe repairs
Had a new B-Pipe installed in 2009 by a recommended muffler shop, and one of the flange joints at the muffler end has failed (pipe is jerry-rigged with baling wire to keep from dragging). Another flange is apparently in need of reinforcement up by the cat converter. The shop that did the original new pipe (for $214, incl. labor) is now quoting me $187 to add two new sleeves where the joints are bad! I can't believe this--$158 alone for the labor? The 2009 job cost me $60 for labor, probably an hour's worth. Guess they come off my recommended places list. The B-pipe itself is in really good condition overall.
I think I could do this with stainless steel connectors from a place like Autozone. Does this sound viable (two connectors at $2.50 each and I'm thinking u-clamps to hold them)? The flange joint up by the cat hasn't come away so maybe a patch kit would work? My finances are dragging the ground just like the exhaust pipe was when it first came away so need an inexpensive alternative. If I tried another shop, what sort of price should I be looking at?
Thanks.
I think I could do this with stainless steel connectors from a place like Autozone. Does this sound viable (two connectors at $2.50 each and I'm thinking u-clamps to hold them)? The flange joint up by the cat hasn't come away so maybe a patch kit would work? My finances are dragging the ground just like the exhaust pipe was when it first came away so need an inexpensive alternative. If I tried another shop, what sort of price should I be looking at?
Thanks.
#2
i can't "see" the issue so it is hard to say.
If the rear is such you can buy a "stick" of pipe and splice the broken part then go for it.
If the front is still "kind of hanging in", a band clamp might hold you over.
A new B pipe is like ~$93 plus the gaskets....maybe another $5~$10 tops. If you are going to do the patch work.....replacing the whole pipe isn't that much more work? Six bolts (three on the cat, three at the muffler connection) then just the rubber hangers.
I'll guess where you live there is no warranty on exhaust.
If the rear is such you can buy a "stick" of pipe and splice the broken part then go for it.
If the front is still "kind of hanging in", a band clamp might hold you over.
A new B pipe is like ~$93 plus the gaskets....maybe another $5~$10 tops. If you are going to do the patch work.....replacing the whole pipe isn't that much more work? Six bolts (three on the cat, three at the muffler connection) then just the rubber hangers.
I'll guess where you live there is no warranty on exhaust.
#3
Thanks for the input "Poorman". I attempted to repair it with a couple of connectors I got from Autozone but a rusted-on flange was in the way. Unfortunately, I have a bigger problem because now the car won't start (cranks, but won't turnover). It was odd, I started the car in the morning to move it for the lawn guys, let it cool so I could try to fix the exhaust problem, and in the early evening I went to go to a meeting and the beast was dead as a doornail. Half tank of gas still, so not out of gas. Last time it wouldn't start was a defective new crank position sensor. Maybe I messed up the O2 sensor when I was monkeying with the exhaust pipe? No CE light though.
#4
Turn keyswitch to On w/ everything else off (radio, fans). Listen carefully for the fuel pump to come on and run for 2-3 secs and go off. If you don't hear the pump (try several times), the main fuel relay is likely faulty. Some repair w/ re-soldering of small circuit board connections and some replace main fuel relay.
good luck
good luck
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