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Do cheap SRIs or CAIs lead to failing catalytic converter??

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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Default Do cheap SRIs or CAIs lead to failing catalytic converter??

So I may have a failing catalytic converter.. got a few threads going on that, not fully sure yet.. still haven't had a chance to check out the code.. but this is what a mechanic i've been emailing with told me.. if this is true, then why are short rams even manufactured?? essentially he states that short rams lead to failed catalytic converters due to sucking in hot air..

me: " there's an aftermarket short ram on the car, which
might be causing the problem. The car feels like it may stall
every once in a while at idle but never does actually stall. "

mechanic: "this is actually a common problem on these once u put an
short ram intake on you burn out the catalytic converter."

me: As for the intake, I know they sell cheap ones but it's a cheap intake that caused the cat to go bad in the first place so why replace it again with a cheap one??

mechanic: "its how the intake is routed that effects the car, a shorter intake will give you hot engine bay temperature, the long intake routed by
the headlight like the stock air box will give you much cooler air."

these are only parts of the whole email convo chain but I thought it'd be excessively long to post the whole thing.. is any of this even true??
 
Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:21 AM
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I have never heard of it and it seems like I would have if it were true. But I guess I wouldn't rule it out.
 
Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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short ram WILL cause heat soak. But only while sitting still...when driving your engine bay actually has a draft of air to keep it cool (it a point). To rule out this issue run 93octane to cute EGR temps down. I have a very hard time seeing how a SRI is "burning up" your cat. I have run SRI and CAI on every honda I have owned never had I had this issue. Your mechanic can also adjust your timing (on the dizzy) to help out too.
 
Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:09 PM
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well this guy's a craigslist mechanic.. see, this is why I can't trust people and their knowledge (or lack thereof).. So I guess it really isn't possible to lose a cat out of having a SRI, cheap or not.. well looks like its not my cat after all, the code that I finally got from autozone is P1259, probable causes:

- Open or short circuit condition..
- VTEC solenoid valve fault
- VTEC pressure switch fault
- Blocked oil passage..

the weird thing about all this is, that still doesn't explain the daily rattle, I guess it could be the heatshield.. but it's also so ironic that the guy at mavis, while having my tires changed couple months ago, told me my cat is going out and/or gone.. but then again, everyone here is trying to rip everyone else off.. don't know what the hell is what.. very coincidental though..

anyway, i'll be posting thing on another thread, more relevantly titled in the general help section, feel free to reply there or here i guess..
 
Old Apr 1, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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check your connections to you vtec solenoid. Clean the screen on the solenoid and see if that helps
 
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 08:52 AM
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thanks for the reply man.. I was actually told it might have to do with oil pressure, which might make sense. I normally get oil changes about 3500 miles or so, this time I went 6000 miles between them. After the oil change, I reset the check engine light and it hasn't come back up yet.. So I am to presume all is well with the car??
 
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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reset you ecu then see if you pop the CEL again. Run little bit harder (as covetable as you feel like doing obviously) and see if you can get it a CEL again.

Also what year and trim accord are we talking about?
I'm gonna assume your a sohc vtec so your vtec is low end. Run WOT few times up to 4k or so (not in park vtec does don't engage in natural or park. You will get your oil pressure goin pretty good and see if you pop your CEL. Check your codes if you do and post them. But also make sure to clean the screen on the vtec solenoid to rule that out at the same time.
 
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:13 PM
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well I have gotten a couple hundred miles in since I reset the CEL but I am kind of scared to rev it to 4 grand (old car), don't want to break anything.. I got it up to about 3500.. still no CEL..

oh btw its a 2000 honda accord SE 4 cyl, F23.. anything else I should check?? still got that rattle from somewhere in the car, sounds like the cat but no CEL (thank god) so who the heck knows..
 
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 02:57 AM
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I am sure your motor will not mind being rev'd past 4k occasionally.

It actually seems to help a motor to be rev'd up every now and then.

Not changing your oil for 6k miles it much worse for the motor -

It does sound like you fixed your problem, however.
 
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by crispin
I am sure your motor will not mind being rev'd past 4k occasionally.

It actually seems to help a motor to be rev'd up every now and then.

Not changing your oil for 6k miles it much worse for the motor -

It does sound like you fixed your problem, however.
I do rev it occasionally but it's usually when I am drunk, I know drunk driving is awful, fortunately I have stopped for nearly a year now.. Coming down from a daily habit that's a big thing.. anyway, the last time i revved it to redline was like a year ago, might be a little lesser..

But ok i'll rev it up today I guess.. I once had this bad experience with a 1500 dollar chevy lumina I used to own many years ago, when a then friend of mine revved it to 5k, something popped, giant coolant leak and that cost a ton to fix for me.. don't want the same story to repeat, thats all.. b'sides 217000 miles makes things awful fragile..
 



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