Well, i should have posted this a few days ago buuuut, I own a 1998 honda accord sedan F23a1 2254cc yada yada and all that jaz

My mods so far:
CAI generic with K&N filter
DC Sports Header 2.5"
High Flow Cat
Thermal Catback
Light weight power steering pulley
140amp alternator (shockingly enought with 2 batteries and idle the system still drains the lights)
idle is 70 amp (system is 1200watt sub amp, and 400watt in cab speakers)
Pioneer premier deck
Pioneer premier 6 1/2 2ways
Memphis 6x9's

Planed mods:
oil cooler (deciding on remote filter or not)
sleeved block 90 to 94mm bore stroke stays at 97mm keeping the compression at 9.3:1
complete head work cam profile set in consideration of turbo
T03/04 hybrid turbo setup (if i get the turbo before the engine is modded 7 or 8psi after its modded 12psi)
Stand alone fuel management (chipping is so mundane)
gauges yada yada......
transmission swap to 5 speed
replace rear drums with disc's
65mm+ throttle body
euro r intake manifold unless i find something better with higher flow

total cost = my soul

I drive just for enjoyment, and i wont be truely happy unless my car is 250hp n/a or over 300 with turbo but with all that work it will probably be closer to 350 to 400hp..... and i will either die, or almost die and back the turbo off lol

 

welcome to the forum... hey i didnt hear anything about a capacitor in your description, if you get one it should keep your lights from dimming.



lightshow

 

hehe i know, havent had a chance to buy one yet, but its only at idle and when the bass hits hard, if i had the stock alternator in it wouldnt be pretty at all, it would be like my friends blazer whos running a 1800 watt high current amp...... i complemented him on his strobe mod......

 

Euro R mani will not be easy getting on to the F23. Save dough on the oil cooler, you're only trying the run 12psi. you won't be under full boost much. Custom 90+ mm sleeves = good luck, cause they sure can't bore them out that much safely. Management = Hondata (which requires a OBD1 ECU, OBD2 to Ob1 Conversion harness and modded wires for IACV) or just plug in AEM EMS. You'll need new pistons with a bigger bore and they will be custom also you'd have to name your desired compression from there. You'll need piston rings they're the first to go on the F23 after 8psi. May as well get rods while the engine is open. Leave the cam profile stock unless you want future problems. Other than that may the Force be with you...see you on the turbo side.

 

The cam regind is in consideration of a turbo, just opening it up a little bit on intake and exaust, but the regrind is more for the prevetc lobes, and it was saying fms in consideration of the aem ems, i figure it would be better to have control over the system myself instead of just having the stock computer rechipped, any changes on the bottom end involves new rods and pistons, and it has to be all custom seeing as my engines block has nothing in common with any of the other f or h series blocks, im trying to decide if i want to stick with the 9.3:1 stock compression or just bump it up to 10:1, i will most likely stick with stock compression tho, and its easy to safely get over 90mm bore, its just the costs skyrocket to achieve it, as for turboing before the engine build, it would be easy enough to run 6psi to avoid unwanted wear, ultimately i expect everything to cost me between 6000 to 10000 for what i want to do

 

What did you have to change to install the throttle body?

 

I think by now , he would have forgotten what he did after his post being about 6 years old..

Welcome to the forums...

WheelBrokerAng