New to the "Honda life"(lol)
#11
03-12-2015, 06:15 PM
You can get an OEM fog light kit for right at $200.......it will have everything you need to do the install - factory like wire harness, switch, lights and hardware for the install. Two part numbers are needed, one is ~$180 and the other is ~$20 - I didn't look at shipping costs 
Also the install instruction walk you thru everything you need to do.
EDIT: Just for grins here are the instructions
Also the install instruction walk you thru everything you need to do.
EDIT: Just for grins here are the instructions
Last edited by poorman212; 03-12-2015 at 06:20 PM.
#12
03-14-2015, 11:59 AM
Welcome to the forum, and congrats on buying a Honda - they're some of the best vehicles out there, and rarely recalled (when they are, Honda actually acknowledges the problem and issues a recall - imagine that!). I've owned a pile of Honda products over the years, and even interviewed for a job at American Honda - but I lacked the tech experience they were looking for :-(.
That said, our 2005 Honda CR-V SE tells the story. We bought her used at 63k and only 2.5 years old - trading in our 2003 CR-V EX for the newer and more loaded model. She now has 168k miles and still drives like she was built yesterday. We've driven her through a blizzard with one headlight, a foot of snow with A/S tires when no other vehicle could make it, and she was hit at the fuel door by an E-350 cargo van a few years back and spun completely around. The impact was so severe that it bent the rear end bad enough that the rear doorframe was out of square. Through all that, we've had to do service, brakes (still on the original rotors btw), and lamps (I replaced them all at 75k, but headlights tend to burn more quickly and they're a PITA on this model with "American" (full-sized) hands LOL.
You made a very smart choice, and congrats on your "new" family member. I'm sure you'll find out that once you've owned a Honda, you'll buy them for years!
That said, our 2005 Honda CR-V SE tells the story. We bought her used at 63k and only 2.5 years old - trading in our 2003 CR-V EX for the newer and more loaded model. She now has 168k miles and still drives like she was built yesterday. We've driven her through a blizzard with one headlight, a foot of snow with A/S tires when no other vehicle could make it, and she was hit at the fuel door by an E-350 cargo van a few years back and spun completely around. The impact was so severe that it bent the rear end bad enough that the rear doorframe was out of square. Through all that, we've had to do service, brakes (still on the original rotors btw), and lamps (I replaced them all at 75k, but headlights tend to burn more quickly and they're a PITA on this model with "American" (full-sized) hands LOL.
You made a very smart choice, and congrats on your "new" family member. I'm sure you'll find out that once you've owned a Honda, you'll buy them for years!
#13
03-14-2015, 12:12 PM
p.s. The first thing I would do is install a K&N drop-in (factory style) replacement air filter. It'll save you money in mpg, and not having to buy more paper air filters (which are junk - no matter what brand IMO). I've been running K&N filters for over 30 years (started using them on my dirt bikes - Honda, of course) and never had an issue. We ran one for over 60k miles without servicing it in our CR-V, and bought another to service and swap when we hit another 60k miles - simple enough.
The other thing I'd sincerely recommend is to switch over to synthetic oil AFTER 50k miles, unless it came from the factory recommending synthetic oil. Reason being, synthetic oils are "too good" at preventing wear, and if used too soon your engine will never break in properly (wear in) for optimal performance. If you do mostly highway driving, and no (or very little) traffic "hump and bump", you can extend your oil changes to 10k miles on high quality synthetics (Royal Purple and their filters are my recommendation), change the oil filter at 5k miles and top the engine off. This will save you the cost of the oil, and prevent wasting perfectly good oil. I've done that in our CR-V for a few years, and at 168k miles she still gets ABOVE the rated mpg, even on crap 10% ethanol gas.
Stay on top of your factory maintenance schedule, have the valves adjusted when they need to be done, and you should see a strong performance level out of your vehicle. I've always been hesitant to install aftermarket mods on any Honda, just because they get it right from the factory every - single - time. My 93 Acura Integra LS with a 1.8L 135hp and a 5 speed rev limited 5th gear at 149mph with nothing more than a body kit, lowering springs, a K&N drop-in air filter, and some Torque Master spark plugs (may want to look into that when the time comes).
If you treat your Honda right, it'll do the same - enjoy!
The other thing I'd sincerely recommend is to switch over to synthetic oil AFTER 50k miles, unless it came from the factory recommending synthetic oil. Reason being, synthetic oils are "too good" at preventing wear, and if used too soon your engine will never break in properly (wear in) for optimal performance. If you do mostly highway driving, and no (or very little) traffic "hump and bump", you can extend your oil changes to 10k miles on high quality synthetics (Royal Purple and their filters are my recommendation), change the oil filter at 5k miles and top the engine off. This will save you the cost of the oil, and prevent wasting perfectly good oil. I've done that in our CR-V for a few years, and at 168k miles she still gets ABOVE the rated mpg, even on crap 10% ethanol gas.
Stay on top of your factory maintenance schedule, have the valves adjusted when they need to be done, and you should see a strong performance level out of your vehicle. I've always been hesitant to install aftermarket mods on any Honda, just because they get it right from the factory every - single - time. My 93 Acura Integra LS with a 1.8L 135hp and a 5 speed rev limited 5th gear at 149mph with nothing more than a body kit, lowering springs, a K&N drop-in air filter, and some Torque Master spark plugs (may want to look into that when the time comes).
If you treat your Honda right, it'll do the same - enjoy!
#14
03-14-2015, 02:55 PM
p.s. The first thing I would do is install a K&N drop-in (factory style) replacement air filter. It'll save you money in mpg, and not having to buy more paper air filters (which are junk - no matter what brand IMO). I've been running K&N filters for over 30 years (started using them on my dirt bikes - Honda, of course) and never had an issue. We ran one for over 60k miles without servicing it in our CR-V, and bought another to service and swap when we hit another 60k miles - simple enough.
The other thing I'd sincerely recommend is to switch over to synthetic oil AFTER 50k miles, unless it came from the factory recommending synthetic oil. Reason being, synthetic oils are "too good" at preventing wear, and if used too soon your engine will never break in properly (wear in) for optimal performance. If you do mostly highway driving, and no (or very little) traffic "hump and bump", you can extend your oil changes to 10k miles on high quality synthetics (Royal Purple and their filters are my recommendation), change the oil filter at 5k miles and top the engine off. This will save you the cost of the oil, and prevent wasting perfectly good oil. I've done that in our CR-V for a few years, and at 168k miles she still gets ABOVE the rated mpg, even on crap 10% ethanol gas.
Stay on top of your factory maintenance schedule, have the valves adjusted when they need to be done, and you should see a strong performance level out of your vehicle. I've always been hesitant to install aftermarket mods on any Honda, just because they get it right from the factory every - single - time. My 93 Acura Integra LS with a 1.8L 135hp and a 5 speed rev limited 5th gear at 149mph with nothing more than a body kit, lowering springs, a K&N drop-in air filter, and some Torque Master spark plugs (may want to look into that when the time comes).
If you treat your Honda right, it'll do the same - enjoy!
The other thing I'd sincerely recommend is to switch over to synthetic oil AFTER 50k miles, unless it came from the factory recommending synthetic oil. Reason being, synthetic oils are "too good" at preventing wear, and if used too soon your engine will never break in properly (wear in) for optimal performance. If you do mostly highway driving, and no (or very little) traffic "hump and bump", you can extend your oil changes to 10k miles on high quality synthetics (Royal Purple and their filters are my recommendation), change the oil filter at 5k miles and top the engine off. This will save you the cost of the oil, and prevent wasting perfectly good oil. I've done that in our CR-V for a few years, and at 168k miles she still gets ABOVE the rated mpg, even on crap 10% ethanol gas.
Stay on top of your factory maintenance schedule, have the valves adjusted when they need to be done, and you should see a strong performance level out of your vehicle. I've always been hesitant to install aftermarket mods on any Honda, just because they get it right from the factory every - single - time. My 93 Acura Integra LS with a 1.8L 135hp and a 5 speed rev limited 5th gear at 149mph with nothing more than a body kit, lowering springs, a K&N drop-in air filter, and some Torque Master spark plugs (may want to look into that when the time comes).
If you treat your Honda right, it'll do the same - enjoy!
As for switching to synthetic oil, waiting until 50,000 miles, nonsense, a car can be switched from conventional to synthetic as soon as the first oil change and the engine will only benefit from the faster flow to the top end of the engine.
#15
03-15-2015, 11:36 AM
Interesting, if that were the case, apparently I'd see a ton of issues. K&N has been in business forever, and I've actually never had to clean a carburetor or throttle body on any of my vehicles - ever.... Seems odd, as you would think I'd have had to do that after living down a gravel road for a few years, or in my off road motorcycles, my 4x4's, etc. Most "Cold AIr Intakes" are laughable at best, but I'm sure there's a ton of them out there - do they use paper filters? That said, if they're drawing their "cold air" from under the hood (in a 190+ deg F environment) they're actually doing more harm than good after the engine warms up to temp - other than making noise.
It's age old and not news that synthetics prevent wear better than conventional oils. I've had to pull down an engine with 25k miles on it years ago because of low compression issues and lack of power complaints (it was a Ford 5.0L). Everything was still so sparkling new, lacking ANY wear, that I had to ask the customer what they were using for oil. Mobil 1 from the first oil change was the answer I got. After checking for proper piston ring alignment, compound seating ("hand lapping") the valves, a gasket set and reassembly, the customer had a bill and a suggestion - use conventional "cheap" engine oil for the next few oil changes, and we kept a close watch on the engine oil as it came out. The engine improved. My initial diagnosis was that some "Einstein" at the factory was having a bad day and decided to align all the ring gaps together, not the case, they never seated (wore in) and were trying to seal against entirely smooth bores. I ran a honing tool through the cylinder bores prior to reassembly. It amazed me to think that they'd run that car for 8 years (it was an '82 Mustang GT) before noticing the issue, they'd apparently been to a car show with it, and got their butt handed to them playing against another one. Incidentally, after that issue was resolved and the compression numbers came up to where they should've been in the first place, a year or more as they obviously didn't drive it much, I suggested they install an Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold and 4 barrel carburetor - as the factory in their infinite wisdom fitted that model with a 2 barrel. It was instantly a rocket, and a few months later it was in with a broken 7.5" trac-lock rear end. Apparently they were "enjoying" their HP (and the rear tires) in a parking lot at another meet doing donuts....
I'll stop sharing my own experiences and advice, as you're a mod and I don't want to rock the boat. Have a great day.
p.s. As K&N is an advertiser here (apparently), I'm not sure how they'd feel about their products being knocked - just an observation. My own experience was from mileage records on a few different vehicles that I've owned. Our 2009 MINI Clubman gained 2mpg highway after installing a K&N drop-in filter, and the paper element wasn't dirty when I tossed it in the trash. I was happy to see the 43mpg (EPA rating max) even when doing 75mph up hills and mountains with the A/C on. Our '08 Nissan Altima 2.5SL gained mpg as well, but I'd replaced the paper element too soon to get solid records of the difference - that said - getting 41-42mpg out of a vehicle that large was amazing to say the least, and it had 100k mi at that time. I tried to drive it out of fuel on a cross country trip and threw in the towel after driving 620 miles without opening the driver door. Our '05 CR-V gained mileage, but I wasn't tracking it, and after 100k miles on K&N filters one would think we'd be seeing (or have seen already) issues - none so far - as it runs like new.
It's age old and not news that synthetics prevent wear better than conventional oils. I've had to pull down an engine with 25k miles on it years ago because of low compression issues and lack of power complaints (it was a Ford 5.0L). Everything was still so sparkling new, lacking ANY wear, that I had to ask the customer what they were using for oil. Mobil 1 from the first oil change was the answer I got. After checking for proper piston ring alignment, compound seating ("hand lapping") the valves, a gasket set and reassembly, the customer had a bill and a suggestion - use conventional "cheap" engine oil for the next few oil changes, and we kept a close watch on the engine oil as it came out. The engine improved. My initial diagnosis was that some "Einstein" at the factory was having a bad day and decided to align all the ring gaps together, not the case, they never seated (wore in) and were trying to seal against entirely smooth bores. I ran a honing tool through the cylinder bores prior to reassembly. It amazed me to think that they'd run that car for 8 years (it was an '82 Mustang GT) before noticing the issue, they'd apparently been to a car show with it, and got their butt handed to them playing against another one. Incidentally, after that issue was resolved and the compression numbers came up to where they should've been in the first place, a year or more as they obviously didn't drive it much, I suggested they install an Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold and 4 barrel carburetor - as the factory in their infinite wisdom fitted that model with a 2 barrel. It was instantly a rocket, and a few months later it was in with a broken 7.5" trac-lock rear end. Apparently they were "enjoying" their HP (and the rear tires) in a parking lot at another meet doing donuts....
I'll stop sharing my own experiences and advice, as you're a mod and I don't want to rock the boat. Have a great day.
p.s. As K&N is an advertiser here (apparently), I'm not sure how they'd feel about their products being knocked - just an observation. My own experience was from mileage records on a few different vehicles that I've owned. Our 2009 MINI Clubman gained 2mpg highway after installing a K&N drop-in filter, and the paper element wasn't dirty when I tossed it in the trash. I was happy to see the 43mpg (EPA rating max) even when doing 75mph up hills and mountains with the A/C on. Our '08 Nissan Altima 2.5SL gained mpg as well, but I'd replaced the paper element too soon to get solid records of the difference - that said - getting 41-42mpg out of a vehicle that large was amazing to say the least, and it had 100k mi at that time. I tried to drive it out of fuel on a cross country trip and threw in the towel after driving 620 miles without opening the driver door. Our '05 CR-V gained mileage, but I wasn't tracking it, and after 100k miles on K&N filters one would think we'd be seeing (or have seen already) issues - none so far - as it runs like new.
Last edited by HwyPilot; 03-15-2015 at 12:59 PM.
#17
03-15-2015, 07:55 PM
I greatly appreciate the statement that my opinions are welcome here, and without threadjacking - I'd like to offer the science to support the results I've seen, if I'm allowed to post links here.
www(dot)knfilters(dot)com/filter_facts(dot)htm
As far as the oil issue is concerned, run what you want, when you want - the "science" I've witnessed on that one was seen and corrected (at some cost I might add). The statement you made of synthetic oil reaching the top end faster wasn't accurate IMHO, as the rated weight of any lubricating oil and the ambient temperature of the operating environment stipulates that, as well as the filter media, the oiling system, etc. Oil of a given weight flows equally as fast, regardless of whether it's conventional, synthetic, or any mix of the two.
www(dot)knfilters(dot)com/filter_facts(dot)htm
As far as the oil issue is concerned, run what you want, when you want - the "science" I've witnessed on that one was seen and corrected (at some cost I might add). The statement you made of synthetic oil reaching the top end faster wasn't accurate IMHO, as the rated weight of any lubricating oil and the ambient temperature of the operating environment stipulates that, as well as the filter media, the oiling system, etc. Oil of a given weight flows equally as fast, regardless of whether it's conventional, synthetic, or any mix of the two.
#18
03-15-2015, 09:45 PM
I greatly appreciate the statement that my opinions are welcome here, and without threadjacking - I'd like to offer the science to support the results I've seen, if I'm allowed to post links here.
www(dot)knfilters(dot)com/filter_facts(dot)htm
As far as the oil issue is concerned, run what you want, when you want - the "science" I've witnessed on that one was seen and corrected (at some cost I might add). The statement you made of synthetic oil reaching the top end faster wasn't accurate IMHO, as the rated weight of any lubricating oil and the ambient temperature of the operating environment stipulates that, as well as the filter media, the oiling system, etc. Oil of a given weight flows equally as fast, regardless of whether it's conventional, synthetic, or any mix of the two.
www(dot)knfilters(dot)com/filter_facts(dot)htm
As far as the oil issue is concerned, run what you want, when you want - the "science" I've witnessed on that one was seen and corrected (at some cost I might add). The statement you made of synthetic oil reaching the top end faster wasn't accurate IMHO, as the rated weight of any lubricating oil and the ambient temperature of the operating environment stipulates that, as well as the filter media, the oiling system, etc. Oil of a given weight flows equally as fast, regardless of whether it's conventional, synthetic, or any mix of the two.
#19
03-16-2015, 10:41 AM
Well, this has been interesting. I thought about adding a cold air intake, but I'm already getting almost 500 miles to a tank, so gas mileage isn't a problem for me at all. The only thing I've noticed that a cold air intake does is make it sound "cooler", I had one on my S/C Monte Carlo SS. It didn't really boost my performance, or gas mileage.
Also, I JUST noticed that this forum doesn't keep growing on the same page, and just noticed that you have to change pages. ���� LOL
Also, I JUST noticed that this forum doesn't keep growing on the same page, and just noticed that you have to change pages. ���� LOL
#20
03-16-2015, 10:42 AM
What I am concerned about, and I don't know if anyone else has this issue or not, but when I start to drive in first gear and second gear. My car makes a whine noise like a shot ford transmission. I've read some people saying it's the power steering pump, but it doesn't make sense because it doesn't matter which way my tires are facing, it'll still make the noise.