I was reading the posts from the guy with the fluctuating rpm's and learned alot about the possible problem. [/align]I have a 92 Accord 2.2L, not a V-6. But having the same issue. Only did it twice since buying the car a year ago. The last time was a week ago. I made the mistake of driving it before it warmed up and it went nuts. [/align]Also the temp gauge hit the roof. I shut it off and waited a minute, then started it again. It did it again, with the temp gauge skyrocketing. I lost antifreeze and figured that I needed a new thermostat. Bought one and went to replace it but didn't know where the housing was located. I realized finally where it was. [/align]I haven't replaced it yet. I also had no heat from the heater, which also made me think it was a stuck thermostat. I have noticed that the last 2 months my temp gauge was acting funny. Only it would drop down to cold not hot and then gradually go back up to normal. [/align]I just had full maintenence done on it, all the fluids changed etc. Cost me about $800 for the works, injectors flushed and cleaned. I get 400 miles to a tank of gas now. Excellant!!!![/align]Now I am noticing a vibration under the hood and can't figure out what that is. My tires are new, a year ago. [/align]I have 250k miles on it, and considering the mileage and year it's in good running condition.[/align]I also have a problem with the brake light coming on, it goes off after I start the car, but comes right back on when I step on the brake. I checked the bulbs and none are out, but the light comes on anyway. I just had all the brakes changed as well. Could it be a short? I do notice a sound coming from the glove box when the brake is applied and the light comes on for the first time.[/align]Any suggestions on these would be greatly appreciated.[/align]The car is going to Napa to replace the thermostat and starter. But thinking the rpm issue is going to be the ignition switch or coil thing that was mentioned. [/align]I am not a novice under the hood of a car, I used to rebuild engines inmy chevy's and dodge truck, also have raced front engine dragsters in Vegas and NH years ago. But not liking to tinker with all the new stuff with the computers and such, haven't learned about all that. So thats why I don't try and fix it now. But knowing the basics about engines and cars makes me more confident when taking my car in to be diagnosed. I know how alot of mechanics will take advantage of someone who is not knowledgable. [/align]And some things I know I can fix. Just need to know what to look for first.[/align]Thanks in advance for any insight.[/align]

 

Good plan todeal withthe cooling system. That can cause more damage if you just leave it. It could be a combination of crud buildup in the radiator & possibly flaky gauge sender.

Instead of 'simply' replacing the thermostat, I'd get the radiator hoses off & see if it's plugged. Then flush out the cooling system real good before putting in the new thermostat.

The tach signal should come from the ignitor on your car, not from the coil. The ignition switch wouldn't be in the signal path for the tach. It's always possible for the tach itself to be flaky.

How's that vibration going? Fast or slow? Only when driving? Shift into a differentgear to see whether it follows engine speed or road speed. Can you make it vibrate while parked?

 

I had a fluctuating idle problem on an Integra. It was the oxygen sensor.

If that's the original radiator in your car, it doesn't owe you anything. It probably needs rodded out or replaced.

Most common reason for brake warning light to go on is low fluid level. Check the level, and the electrical connections at the sensor. I've seen shops that don't replace brake fluid or bleed the brakes following brake work. Brake fluid level drops as new pads bed in.

You really need a shop manual.

 

Check brake fluid level. Move the float up and down to make sure it isn't sticking.

I agree with the other suggestions above as well.