!!WARNING!! I am not responsible for you blowing up your car. It is your responsibility to make sure you do everything correctly...
Objective:
-This thread is a DIY for installing a wet or dry nitrous oxide system onto your Honda. I will do my best to make sure everything is covered. If you have any questions, just ask and you will get an answer...
Estimated time and skill level:
This install should take about 2-3 hours depending on the application…
This install is 3 out of 10, building a motor being a 10…
Parts Needed:
-Bottle
-Solenoids (Fuel and Nitrous)(Just Nitrous for Dry Shot)
-Nozzle
-Nitrous Feed Line (Bottle to Solenoid)
-Solenoid/Nozzle Line(Solenoid to nozzle)
-fuel feed line (fuel source to solenoid)
-Arming Switch
-Button OR Full Throttle Switch
-Extra wiring
Tools needed:
-Screwdriver and socket set
Step 1: Mounting the Bottle
-Where you choose to mount the bottle is totally up to you… Everyone has their own preference… In my opinion, the trunk is a great option. There are several places for mounting such as the spare tire cover … Also it keeps the bottle out of arms reach, and this is good so that you don’t just spray randomly, it must be thought over and planned…Just drill the holes for the mounts and screw or bolt them in… Then just slip your bottle in and tighten it up…
Step 2: Mounting the Solenoids
-Deciding where you’re going to mount your solenoids can be tough… An easy yet hidden way is to install them under the fuse box (this keeps them in a great spot and hidden for those who like to be sneaky )… You can mount them anywhere you want to though. To get the fuse box out of the way, remove the cover… Then remove 1 10mm bolt holding it down, and push toward the rear of the car on the 2 tabs at the back of the fuse box, and lift up at the same time… It should be removable now. You might need to take off some connectors on the side of the fuse box as well…
Step 3: Routing the Nitrous Feed Line
-Route your main nitrous feed line from the bottle to the nitrous solenoid… You can do this by either running it as you would your power wire in a stereo install, or running it out of the trunk using the drain plug and running it along the underside of the car following the brake lines up to the engine bay… Just make sure to not cinch the line…
Step 4: Running the Wiring
-Next step is to run your wiring… Make sure you disconnect the battery first, as a safety precaution… You can get your 12v source from the fuse box. You may also install an inline fuse from your arming switch to your battery…
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Step 5: Installing the Nozzle
-Take off your intake and decide where your nozzle placement will be… You can put it on under the first bend on the intake off the throttle body (about 6" from the throttle body Butterfly)… Drill and tap where you are going to put it… You can use JB WELD to keep the nozzle from leaking or moving around.
Step 6: Running the Fuel Feed Line
-Run your fuel feed line to your fuel solenoid IN… This is tricky, there are MANY ways you can do this… You can get a couple of fittings, a 90* male/male, a 90* female/male, and an open ended banjo bolt. Another alternative fuel source is the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter… Tap into the fuel line and this will run to the fuel “In” on the fuel solenoid…
Step 7: Run the Solenoid to Nozzle Line
-Run the lines from your solenoids to the nozzle… You can have stainless steel lines made for this… Just run the lines from the “out” on the solenoids to their appropriate spot on the nozzle…
Step 8: Check for leaks
-Make sure to use Teflon tape on all the fuel side fittings, just for safe measure, turn your key to the "on" position to check for any leaks in the fuel system. Also, hook up your bottle and turn on the nozzle to your bottle to make sure there are no leaks in your nitrous lines.
Step 9: Check your jets
-Make sure you have the correct jets for the shot you want to spray; you can use this program to make sure my jetting is correct…
Step 10: Change Your Sparkplugs
-Generally you want to use copper spark plugs as opposed to the stock platinum ones... You also want to reduce the gap from the stock 0.050" down to 0.035"-0.040"... The reason you want a smaller gap is because of ionization... If you change from the typical air (78%nitrogen, 21% oxygen)/fuel ratio, a given gap requires more energy to ionize the mixture, resulting in less energy in the spark, if you even get a spark... You could also increase the coil voltage instead of decreasing the gap, but using a smaller gap would be preferential since the spark time will be smaller... The reason that you will close the gap on your spark plugs is because when nitrous is added, it raises the cylinder pressure, much like a supercharger... Therefore "blowing" the spark out. When you close the gap it cannot put out the spark as easily...
PLEASE READ BEFORE RUNNING YOUR CAR!!! THIS INFORMATION CAN SAVE YOUR ENGINE, AND YOURSELF FROM A HUGE HEADACHE!!!
-There are several things that you can add to prevent extensive damage and achieve overall safety for your car...
Window Switch:
-This electrical device provides an open or closed circuit based on the engine being between two RPM values (hence "window") that you chose, so that you'll only flow nitrous in this range... Why would you do that? Well, for two very different reasons...
At low RPM, think about what's going on: you're spraying nitrous into the intake at a constant flow... That is, the nitrous bottle and solenoids have no idea what RPM you're at, and they're just pushing it into the intake at a constant volume... Inside the engine, though, the nitrous and fuel combination is being sucked into the cylinders during every stroke... The net result is that at low RPM, you're getting far more of the mixture into the cylinders... At 3000 RPM, for example, you're getting twice the amount as at 6000 RPM... So, you can imagine that running nitrous at, say 1000 RPM, is far more stressful on the motor as at 3000 RPM, and typically causes a "nitrous backfire" - meaning that the nitrous/fuel combination can explode in the intake manifold (rather than the cylinders) - a bad thing... So that's why you don't want the system triggered at low RPM.
At high RPM, the situation is easier to explain... Given the discussion of the rev limit above, you may just want the nitrous system to cut off before hitting that rev limit... If your rev limit is implemented by an aftermarket ignition, it's perfectly safe for the motor to run nitrous during the rev limit... It's not particularly easy though, on your transmission or clutch to have all that power during the shift, which may be a reason to keep the window switch set a bit before you shift...
Timing Retarder:
-A nitrous/fuel mixture increases the burn rate in the cylinder, and typically adding a few degrees of timing retard is recommended for safety... A rule of thumb is two degrees per 50hp of nitrous, but this will also reduce the power generated... When I tune my system, I monitor engine knock, and retard the timing only enough to eliminate the knock, which is usually about one degree per 50hp... At the track, under harder conditions (actually pulling the weight of the car, possibly higher outdoor temperatures, etc) I'll add a degree of retard...
High Octane Fuel:
-High octane gas (e.g. 100 or more, unleaded) will also slow the burn rate in the cylinder... This will provide another way, similar to retarding timing, to avoid knock... Make sure it's unleaded, of course, or you'll destroy your O2 sensors... By the way, watch out for Octane Boost claims... Typical claims are "8-10 points of octane boost for a tank of gas..." You should be aware that these "points" are tenthsof a point of octane as you'd purchase at a gas station... So the above example will raise your octane from 92 to 92.8 or 93, not 100-102 as you might think... Don't assume that if high octane fuel helps on nitrous motors, that it'll help your naturally aspirated motor too... A naturally aspirated motor is tuned for a particular octane of gas; adding more doesn't help one bit. Save your money...
Nitrous Filter:
-A simple part, but essential in any nitrous system... This filter is added in-line to your nitrous line, between the tank and the solenoid... Install it as close to the solenoid end as is convenient... It will trap any small particles that may come through the line, much like a fuel filter... A common solenoid failure is due to some particle jamming it open...
TEST YOUR SOLENOIDS:
-Failed fuel or nitrous solenoids can do extensive damage... Some of the issues here may be hard to cover with only other safety devices... I recommend you wire your solenoids with spade clips, so you can easily disconnect them, and test them on a regular basis... Simply disconnect them from the rest of the wiring, then ground one side, and connect the other side to 12V, and listen for the click-click to make sure they open and close... Some folks will also use two nitrous solenoids, in-line, which will ensure that both would have to fail before the flow would fail to stop... Of course you still need to test this setup, to ensure one isn't stuck open...
Well you should still to more research before you do a nitrous system on your car... But this should get you all the way through... If you have any questions Lemme know...

 

Please sticky... Thank you...

 

another sweet write up. you sir are the car king lol.

i do have a question. whats your opinion on the zex safe shot system? its a small bottle and the kit is designed to only give a baby shot of nitrous. figured it might be interesting to put in my accord of course i know it will require a few more parts but hey a good inexpensive start.

 

Well to tell you the truth, ZEX makes a hell of a nitrous system...I've heard of the safe shot before, and it seems to be a legit, and budget friendly system... Now i will tell you that I do not in any way/shape/or form condone a dry shot or even nitrous for that matter... Ive seen what it does to motors, and have some first hand experience with it... Before even considering it, i'd do a thorough compression check to make sure the rings are in good shape... This safe shot system is a dry shot... This means you need colder plugs. If a plug melts. Well. Lets just say you wont be driving for a while ... Next be prepared for a nitrous backfire. This sometimes happens on nitrous and will blow your intake into many tiny pieces. You will need to upgrade your fuel delivery system a LOT. The problem with dry kits is that if something goes wrong, and your engine doesnt recieve enough fuel, the result is an EXTREMELY lean condition in the engine which also means you probably wont be driving for a while
I WOULD reccommend a wet shot. A wet shot is not that much harder than a dry shot, there is less chance for error on both driver and machine side. Oh yea, and dont push your car too much. I would go with a 50 shot on stock internals to be safe. Ive seen at least 2 civics blow their engine simply b/c their car couldnt take a 100 shot...