definately wrap that pipe that is coming out of the turbo, because it is right in front of the wastegate. so its running good huh?? alright ......let me know what settings you have the msd at right now as far as when it starts to retard the timing, and by how much per pound of boost.

 

yeai bet that burnt tire smell is that pipe getting so hot and that rubber boot next to the turbo giving off that smell. you dont want the oil return line to be on the long side though. you should shorten it so its the perfect length. hey and your a good welder.....you should weld a pipe that runs off the wastegate, and cut a nice little clean hole in the side of your side fender and have it exit flush with that...that would seriously be sick.

 

hahah that would be sick. The funny part is I thought about doing that exact thing. When the wastegate opens up, just have it scream out of that hole. haha. Right now I just have a short dump tube going down, but I'm thinking I should do something like that now.

I'll shorten that oil line though. Maybe that will help things.

If you have those ignition tips you mentioned lightshow, I'm all ears!

 

yep it deals with your msd ignition. what are the current settings on that. like when it starts to retard the timing and by how much per pound of boost or ATM or BAR

 

The start point is set to about 2.5 psi. Kinda a safety setting for trying things out I suppose. I have the fine tune **** (in car ****) around 1.5. I'm not sure if that second number is in psi... just the numbers on the control its self.

 

whats the range on the **** inside the car?

 

ok just got the specs. its 0-3 degrees per pound.. so i want you to start with making sure that the MSD vacuum line is the exact same source as the FMU is using. then set the dial on the unit under the hood at 3 degrees, and the dial inside at 0.5. start with this and you may still be able to throw on some more timing on top of this. your probably going to feel a startling difference...and you now have a lot of room to work with here so this is where the fine tuning will need to come in. you just dont want to have any detonation at all... when you get the boost controller, and you add on some more boost you may want to up the dial in the car to .75 or even one. now if you run higher octane fuel.....or get a better spark.....you can throw on more timing so just keep that in mind. let us know how it goes

 

also, that bomb that you toasted that mustang i bet he was feeling bad....this will help you lanch and corner alot better.


LSD

 

and it sounds like the motor is just about dialed in so some good injectors would be a good idea. the 450cc's would be perfect. but in general now as you go up in horsepower, you will want to use this formula


(horsepower * BSFC)/ (number of injectors * duty cycle)

the BSFC of an n/a engine is usually .5 and on a turbo engine it is .6 or greater.


so if the dial on your MSD inside the car is set at zero and your running 8 psi. your car had 140 hp stock and there is about 14 psi in one ATM or BAR. so for every PSI there is a 10 hp difference so with 8 psi you would have gained 80 hp (if the dial is set at zero). so you should be hovering around 220hp at the crank. so 220 * .6 is 132 and 4 injectors * 80 percent duty cycle or .8 is 3.2.....so your injectors should deliver 41.25 lb/hr and to change this to CC's just multiply by 10.5....so you would need at least 433 cc's.

 

that timing stuff is the exciting part...i hope your rippin right now.