Yep, Fidanza 3.2 Kevlar clutch and Fidanza 8lb Aluminum Flywheel. I got my bases covered man.

 

Nice! Personally, I'd do Stage 2 instead of 3, but that's just me. Have fun with it!

 

Nah, it is Stage 2. They just number them oddly, the 2.1 is a carbon/Kevlar mix and the 3.2 is 100% Kevlar, then they got to 4.3 which is a ceramic 6-puck and then the 5.4 which is a 4-puck sintered iron disc.

 

I see ..... how hard of an engagement is the kevlar? I usually see the upgrades listed as Stage 1: A bit tighter than stock, S2: 50-70% firmer than stock, S3: full kevlar, S4+: harder materials and puck style clutches.

 

Here is the clutch they sent me:



As you can see it's a woven Kevlar/carbon blend, not !00% Kevlar. I shot them an e-mail asking if it was indeed the correct clutch and I'm waiting a reply.

This is what they depict the 3.2 on their website as:




What do you guys think? This is the 2.1 which it looks a lot more like:




I'm not expecting the engagement to be much more harsh than stock, but I bought it because of it's overheating resistance not smoothness. I don't care if my date or mom gets whiplash!

 

Just checked my e-mail, they said it's the 2.1 disc so now I have to do an exchange. I am really gonna have to baby this thing until I get the clutch. I was slowing down at a stop light in 3rd and it suddenly turned green so I dropped it into 2nd because my tranny is picky about rolling and shifting into 1st and it just revved up to 3k with only a little bit of acceleration. I also got a weird sound today, I think this clutch is so worn the rivets are starting to rub a little.

 

Good thing you have a new flywheel!!! You have overheating problems? The clutches that I was looking at had a full face kevlar. I'm not even looking at any puck style ones. After all, I'm still learning to drive manual!

 

A full face Kevlar disc would be a lot harder to drive than a puck-style one, more SA of Kevlar... I don't know about everyone else, but I tend to downshift to 3rd, then 2nd when coming to a light to save my pads and rotors. Plus, I do like to have fun sometimes. I'd rather drop the $$$ now so I can have a long-lasting clutch for regular driving and can handle some abuse when I want to throw down some rubber.

I've always "known" how to drive a manual, but this is the first one I've owned. The only time I ever make myself look like an idiot is during those quick-paced traffic mergers where you have to mash the brake, push in the clutch and change gears while checking your blind spot 10 times while flipping on the turn signal without getting rear ended. That's usually when I grind a gear or stall the car

 

Here's a final goodbye before the car gets picked up tomorrow:












PRESSURE TREATED COILOVERS FTW!







1995 and 1999 together at last!






Powder coated the valve cover myself. Turned out pretty nice, I'd say.


This is what I wanted to do the valve cover in origanally, it's called "Gunmetal". I thought "Oh cool, this might match my wheels!" boy was I wrong. Glad I did the cruise control bracket first.


Represent!

 

I hear you on the shifting. I hardly stall at all anymore, but I did once yesterday. We have 5 cars at my house and my spot is a K-turn in reverse between my brother's and sister's cars. When they don't park exactly where they are supposed to, the manuver can get kinda hairy. Inching in 1 or R are the only times that I have trouble ..... also I still peel out a bit most of the time on this one steep hill with a traffic light on top that's always red. I always think that I'm going to roll into the car behind me and rush it with the pedals. All in all, I've had a manual for 2000 miles and I think I'm doing alright. Maybe at the end of the summer, I'll be ready for Skip Barber Level 1 performance driving school.