After passing 104,000 miles, I did a massive Tune-up:

Distributor Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
Changed, flushed all fluids, replaced with Honda
Water Pump, Seals, Head Cover Gaskets
Timing Belt and new Radiator Hoses
Motor Mounts

I didn't replace the Idler or Tensioner, they looked fine.

We moved and I passed the car over to Mechanic shop to finish timing belt job, replacing upper intake and throttle gaskets.

I flew to pick car up and drove it back to our new home (approx. 450 miles)

I drove it home with transmission mounts blown.

Days away from repairing transmission mounts, I'm driving along, 'Boom'.
I thought I had ran over something, quite a kick on accelerator. Engine immediately failed, put it in neutral, coasted to side of road.

I can't work on the car where I'm living, have to tow it to family garage.

Mechanic told me Tensioner was leaking oil. I told him I filled with oil, could have put too much oil in it. Timing Belt could have slipped or come off, most likely!

Questions:

Could this be from a complete failure of Distributor, if not Timing Belt?

If Valves are damaged, Pistons are not, is it best just to replace Cylinder Heads? Other words, better to replace engine or Cylinder Heads?

I'm considering just getting an Engine with Warranty, either replacing or taking Cylinder Heads off.

Any advice, greatly appreciated. I'm in a real Jam on this Never, never have I had an engine do this, absolute nightmare!!

Thanks,

sG

 

The problem i am looking at is this: the 98-02 Accords (especially the V6 models) with an automatic transmission were notorious for transmission failure.
I would not want to tell you to put too much more money in that engine and have the transmission fail shortly after.

As far as what you are asking: Have you taken the timing cover off to inspect the belt and see if it broke or slipped off?
If it broke or slipped off: the answer depends on the extent of the damage. It also depends on what can be done cheaper: replace the heads or replace the engine. If a replacement engine can be found for about the same price as replacing the heads (I bet you could find a used one for not too much$), then engine replacement would be the route I would go.

 

Thanks for bringing up the Tranny. I've been pondering the past few days. When I changed Transmission Fluid with Honda ATF, the magnetic bolt had a lot of metal shavings on it. I just don't know if that's normal.

I was thinking of taking Oil cap off, turn car over to see if upper half of engine is moving. I'm concerned about doing more damage to valves, pistons.

Your advice is right on target!! I found an Engine for $450, six year warranty, 130K miles etc. I don't think that's bad. Maybe I should just pull the engine..

I was disappointed that Haynes Manual instructs you to pull the engine and Transmission from beneath the car. Then, after pulling them out, separate. I don't understand personally. They are the Experts...

When I tried to start it after this happened, I hear a metal sound from lower half of engine, nothing from top. Still speculative at this point....

I think the old engine would make a nice coffee table

SG

 

Haha I hear you about the cofee table, but my wife would kill me for doing something like that.

Metal shavings on the trans drain plug does NOT sound good, nor is it normal.....

I would still start off by pulling the timing cover and looking at the belt.

I wouldn't trust the Haynes manual 100% either - I do have and use one ocasionally though. Helm is the maker of the shop manual, but you have to order it and it costs around $60 (they were sold out last Christmas, but it's going back on this year's letter from me to Santa Claus.) There are guys on here whom I am sure have pulled engines before (I have not so I don't really know what I am talking about.) I can't see why you couldn't remove it from the top after disconnecting the trans though....