You should start a new thread, so this thread isn't confusing. Describe what is happening, work that has been done, etc.. Is your car still cranking funny?

 

Here is a link which may give you some insight.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

It could be related to the igniter (located inside distributor), coil, or something else.

As PAHonda suggested, you may want to start a separate thread from this one.

Also what trim level is your 94 Accord (e.g., LX, EX, etc.)? IIRC, DX and LX had an external coil, while the EX had an internal coil (inside of distributor).

With any other information you post, we can possibly give further detail.

 

My 1996 Honda Accord DX kept stopping on me. Ran great, but randomly shut off. First few times it restarted after a few mins. After a few weeks, it took 10 mins. Then about 30 mins this last time. In between shutdowns, we replaced the fuel pump. That was not it, although it was about to go anyway.

I read this forum and took some of the advice and replaced the ignition control module which is inside the distributor. I got on the used parts site and found a grade A(low miles) Distributor for $75 bucks (new $300 to $350). So I just replaced the whole thing. Took me less than an hour to do it.

Finally I am back to normal Honda operation. This was first problem with my 300k Honda that left me sitting along side the road. It actually seems to downshift smoother and run a bit smoother overall I think.

Good luck to all who read this.

 

My 94 According doing the same. Runs for about 15 mins then dies. Wont start up. 1 hour later starts right up. Runs for about 15 mins, same thing. Replaced relay, coil but exactly the same problem every time. When it does fail, no spark from the coil. Something is getting hot. Going to replace distributor tomorrow. This is 2016 but car only has 77K miles. This only problem it has had.

 

You may have already replace the distributor, so let us know how it worked out.

Otherwise, it may be the igniter (ignition-control-module inside the distributor). Some parts stores can test your igniter.

 

I had the same intermittent problem until I replaced the coil. I believe it has an inaccessible relay inside its sealed housing and that relay was failing when hot. The car would conk out and if I came back two hours later it instantly started. You can test for a bad coil by checking for ~12 volts on the two thickest wires (yellow and black) going into the coil while ignition key is fully on and if good then test for high voltage coming out of the coil using a spark plug test bulb while cranking the engine. To see the spark test bulb flashing (obvious even in day light) while you're inside the car cranking, looking through windshield, connect it to the coil with an extra spark plug wire to extend the test bulb into view.