I replaced it and it ran well for about 10 minutes and then it started happening again. I have not found any information about bleeding the coolant lines, so I cannot do that. I believe that I will just take it to a retail shop and pay them to use their computer diagnostic test to see what is failing. I cannot afford to buy all new sensors for this car!

However, it might be the evap canister/sensor. The canister is just hanging and I think there might be somethign missing from it, but since I have no idea what an intact one looks like...I cannot tell what that part might be. I'll have to look it up now that I know what it is...even if I do not know what it does yet.

The car is VERY close to being in operating condition. I need to buy a windshield last. First thing I need to do is get the front pushed over about 3/4"...I put the headlights and bumper on and closed the hood and found that the lines were great except that they were off...just a little. -_- Also found out that I need a power steering liquid reservoir and the upper windshield reservoir. After that I need to find out why it keeps having idling issues then it is ready to drive down the street and I've only spent $1400 so far.

I was talking to a parts store employee and he said he just bought a 95 accord with 151k miles (maybe, they bought a different tachometer), 5 speed. After driving it to tucson from phoenix he found out that it heats up after 45 minutes of driving in town, and has an bad oil leak. He bought it for $3500 and said that it was just slightly over priced. It was not a vtec motor and was just the base model. He had a fit when I told him how much I paid for mine.

 

To bleed the coolant, there is a bleeder valve on the t-stat housing - where the lower hose connects to the engine.

I'll hit the highlights......turn the heat to max heat so the heater valve opens. Open the bleeder and remove the rad cap. Add coolant "slowly" until a good stream comes out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder.

Here is the debate;
I start the car with the cap off and let it run until the fans come on or the t-stat opens.

Some place the cap back on BUT ONLY TO THE FIRST CLICK so that not much if any pressure can build up and start the car until the fans come on or the t-stat opens.

Turn the car off, top off rad and res tank. Install the cap all the way.

 

okay, so I went down to Checker/O'Riley auto and had them run a diagnostic computer check and it came back with the manifold air pressure sensor circuit high voltage.

The possible causes section of the handout says that it could be one of 5 things:

I need to look at my repair manual and see if it says anything about the ground circuit first... number 5 might also be an issue. I've no idea how to go about performing a PCM or what it is to be honest.


The good news is that it is derivable except the breaks need to be bled REALLY badly, the A/C needs to be charged, and whatever this idle problem is. The guy at the parts store said that there is a cleaner that is used to clean the throttle body/area where the MAP sensor connects to it (on the inside). I Then went online to find out what I can do to 'clean' is and the website said to go and drive it on the freeway, at 25 mph, and various other steady speeds. Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes when it is parked and then restart the car. apparently it is part of the idle 'relearn' procedure?

 

Oh...and the core support I took off of the other car was from a v6, not a L4...ALL of the holes were off by 3/4"...seriously a pain to get everything back together properly. Had to weld many pieces of metal onto existing components and make new holes. Had to beak the left side of the car over 1/4 of an inch and the right side by 1/2 inch just to get the headlights to mount properly. then all the fenders were no where close to being aligned so I had to drill new hole and bend the metal here and there in order for them to be remotely close to the marks...and then the front bumper on the drivers side was off by 3/4" (too low) and the passenger side was off by 1/2" (too high). There was A LOT of MONKEYING around with stuff to get it right. I hope it all works.

 

Okay so I have a question that I cannot find an answer to. Does anyone know what the base model of the 1996 LX accord came with? I swear, none of the 94-97 accords (base, ex, or LX) have been without an ABS system, however mine seems to not have it. Did that come stock or was it an option that was not chosen at the time of purchase?

I was just wondering because of the break problem. I also noticed that the black piece on the Idle control valve is slightly bent. here is a stock image of the one I have in my car. Could this be causing the idle problems? I'll go and take a picture of my part now and post that as well.


[EDIT]the one on my car. Sorry for poor quality, was taken quickly with my phone.

 

That doesn't look good....I'm going to bet that is the idle issue. Check a bone yard for a replacement. Be sure to clean it reall well before installing. Also you will loose a bit of coolant so you will want to be sure the air is out of the system.

Yes, the v6's were wider than the 4 cyl. One reason you can't put a v6 in a factory 4cyl car.

Google may answer the ABS question. I think ABS was an option on them in this year.

 

I'll have to search high and low for a used throttle body then because as of last week no one had a 96 accord 4cyl in stock at a wrecking yard with any fuel systems still intact. There are a number of used parts dealers that do sell parts off of junked cars...I'll go and check there saturday. Hopefully it is close to 75-80% off of the retail price or I won't be able to afford it! Online they are selling for $350 or close to it for an OEM or $100 for aftermarket replacement. Lets hope that it is close to the latter. lol

I completely forgot to post pics of the finished body work! I'll go take a few pictures and post them.

 

The hood is up a little because the cable that releases the hood latch was messed up in the accident and if I shut it all the way the only way to release it is by fishing my hand behind the fender and pulling on the cable! (it was bent and the little clip that holds it in place in the latch was broken. (Not the thing on the end that goes into the mechanism, but the other one on the outside-ish part of the mechanism...if that makes sense)

A little gap on this side...



Less on this side



And the complete front end.



I was able to buy the grill for 75 cents at a local retailer...I turned in a used part and with the credit I was able to get a brand new oem grill for only $0.75 Best deal on the entire car!

I however do have another question regarding the plastic clips that go on the hood to hold the gasket in place.they have a ****** head and are green...well mine are all broken from the accident and I cannot find them at any of the body parts stores. I'm also looking for the interior clips that are used to attach the backs of the seats...for some reason no one in town carries Honda body clips...I've tried about 5 different, but similar, clips and none of them fit in the holes! lol

 

Try a paint supply store for the clips.

Don't need the whole TB, just the IAC. So try looking for that, also try car-part dot com for local yards.....also, going on memory?, I think all of the 5th gens (94-97) had the same IAC.

 

Auto parts stores carry a variety of aftermarket clips. Measure hole size and match as closely as possible to get good connection. ebay is another source of good OEM style clips at good prices.

good luck