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Perfect, I even have some scrap wiring that I used when I shortened other wires, so I'll try that out tonight!
Edit: Yeah the power pack is currently set to 2 channel mode. I even switched it to 4ch mode and toggled on/off all the other switches as well (HPF) and no combination seemed to make a difference.
Last edited by loamyroots; Mar 5, 2018 at 01:47 PM.
Hallelujah, I have sound!!! Neophyte you're awesome! Thank you so much for the advice, I guess there is a factory amp somewhere that was giving us a hard time.
I'm going to run new speaker wires to the crossovers and install the components with sound deadening this upcoming weekend. I'll post pics of the final setup once I'm done, thanks again!!
Glad you were able to get it worked out. For sure would love to see the pics.
also on the hpf on the alpine. if full is an option I would leave it there. if you only have HPF and LPF put it on HPF. But I would set it on full if you can and then you can set your eq up in the headunit. It gives you more control that way.
This is more just for curiosity, but if I were to add a sub in the future is that when I would set the crossover to HPF? The Alpine amp has HPF settings of 60Hz, 80Hz, or 120Hz cutoff frequencies.
Would the 12ga power cable that I ran from the battery to the amp be strong enough to power a sub also or would I need to run another power cable separately for the sub?
Also do you have any recommendations for an affordable mass loaded vinyl? I'm looking to cut down on road noise and read that you could put some MLV in those big holes that the Accord doors have. However most posts from prior years recommended the Home Depot DB3 MLV, but on their site it is either out of stock or they no longer make it.
I already have some 80mil butyl sound deadener and fiberglass insulation board that I'll wrap in plastic wrap for sound absorption.
Correct. When you add the sub you will want to remove bass from the speakers. This will give you cleaner sound from the speakers and also higher volume capability.
12AWG is not enough for a sub amp. 8awg is the smallest I would go and good for a 500W sub amp. Those kits are cheap.
This is what i'm moving to from MLV. Aluminum sheet metal with deadener on each side. I also apply closed cell foam for gasketing
and then you can apply closed cell foam (Raamaudio Ensolite shown) to prevent the panel from rattling against the deadener foil facing.
Also, when you place the 3/4" closed cell foam weatherstripping along the top half of the inside of the speaker opening, are you completely covering the foam with sound deadening? For example, when sound deadening the seam between the baffle, door, and foam, do you go completely around the foam and wrap all exposed edges of the foam?
I am not going to speak for KHA on this because his way is probably the best I have seen and I would hate to be wrong in how he does it, but I will say, avoid self tapping screws all together if at all possible. a screw and a nut will always be better.
Yeah using a screw and nut is always more secure, but I don't see how I would be able to get behind the screw to tighten the nut if I closed off the hole using sheet metal?
