I am new to this forum so I hope I am posting in the right thread, don't shoot me if I'm not!

I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX-L w/ Navi and I am having some electrical problems. I have a strong feeling it has something to do with my after market amplifier that powers my 10 inch subwoofers and the possible stock amplifier (not sure if the car has one). Sometimes when I take the key out of the ignition, the dash screen will stay on and run my battery down. I didn't notice until I came to my car one day and the battery was dead. It doesn't happen always but sometimes it does and then if I try to turn the car back on and off, when I turn on the car my subwoofers have a horrible kick back for a few seconds. The only way to stop it is if I take the fuse out of my power wire and kill the power to the amplifier. I think if I put I kill switch through my remote wire to disable my amplifier when I'm not in the car it will work but I'm not sure. Because I have the EX-L model I didn't want to change the headunit and the subwoofers are wired by a Hi/Lo RCA converter spliced through the back speakers. I'm not sure if this is happening because it's not bypassing the stock amplifier or what's going on really. I am still kind of trouble shooting the problem but would really appreciate any help or suggestions from others on the forum.

 

Did this problem start happening as soon as you installed the system in your car?

 

No, had the system for probably a good six months before this happened. It did however start happening about a month after I had a aux cable installed for my MP3 player. I don't know if that might've had anything to do with it either.

 

This might be better over in A/V Electronics section, so I'll move it.

 

how/where did you connect the remote turn-on?

if the stock HU doesn't turn off, it's a problem inside the stock HU and not a result of external equipment (unless you wired it incorrectly).

 

I didn't do it, a shop (crappy shop) did it. I checked the remote wire and it was run to an acc fuse in the fuse box.

 

use a DMM to verify that the remote wire loses voltage when you turn off the car.

 

the better solution is a $25 LOC that includes an auto-turn-on feature so the remote wire is generated there and not in the dash.