Are these sliders ..... like an EQ??? An EQ will have a curve, a crossover will have a flat line with an angle downward (normally -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB)

 

Aaron are you ever going to hawr with us again?

 

Been pretty busy. Also, I was told that everything is blocked and tracked at my new job ..... I don't know if it's true or not ..... I immediately tried my personal email accounts and they all worked, so who knows. It's a good job, 15 minutes from home and worth as much as Javits, so I'm not messing with that.

 

Bringing this thread back to life with a question. I have an 07 Accord and was wondering if there is a video tutorial on doing this upgrade. I comprehend the alt to battery cable and battery to ground cable. But I am not understanding the engine block ground cable, or even where this stock cable is located. I am putting in a 1000W RMS amp so I believe this will be a must.

 

your factory engine to ground:
pull your battery and battery box.
pull your air box.
it is right there. I will post a pic momentarily.

 

Thanks Bro. If anyone has some left over 0/1 guage wire I would be interested. No need to buy a kit. Kits normally come with 3x 5' wire. See here only need a few inches for this connection.

 

If you give your amp(s) a mainline ground to the battery, you'd be better off for music purposes. If you want to minimize the electrical strain on your car, then the big 3 comes in. Direct wires allow your amps to not interact with much of the rest of the car's electrical system, provided that you have enough battery and alternator power for the amps and the car. If you plan to slam music a lot with 1000W to the subs only, you are going to need a high power alternator and a medium size power cell (Batcap, Kinetic, etc.). If you like to have that power, but listen below 75% most of the time, a small power cell would do. A word of caution ..... Power cells don't like to drain like a deep cycle and may be killed if you kill your main battery ..... Use a circuit breaker for the main connection and open it if your car is going to need to be jumped.

 

FYI, as far as the big 3 is concerned, the block to ground is about the most important connection in stabilizing the current draw through the ignition coils. IMO, the connection should be from the block to the same point that the battery is connected to the battery and these 2 wires should both be the largest gauge used.

 

Sorry but I have to dissagree with most of what was said here.
For 1 thing you did not mention what amp you are using. If it is something like a Sony Xplode that says 1,000 watts on it you would not be drawing anywhere near that amount.

Here is how I ran my ground to frame, do not over think it, you just need to add another ground from the motor (anywhere) to the frame (anywhere)



Here is my setup. That is a 1,500 watt Fosgate amp and a 400 watt MB Quart amp.

I am running an HO alt and the stock battery. I have a volt meter installed where the ashtray used to go. I stay over 13 volts almost all the time.

 

I said it was 1000 watt RMS amp. Doesn't really matter the brand. 1000 RMS is 1000 RMS. But for poop in giggles it's a Rockford R-1000.