Big Three Upgrade problem.
#1
Big Three Upgrade problem.
I know how to do the big three upgrade. But on my car there are 4 cables.
One ground to chassis. One ground to engine. One power from alternator (Through fuse box) to batter. And one cable from the positive terminal to the engine. What the hell's up with that fourth cable? And do I just upgrade it the same as I would the others?
I have a VTEC.
One ground to chassis. One ground to engine. One power from alternator (Through fuse box) to batter. And one cable from the positive terminal to the engine. What the hell's up with that fourth cable? And do I just upgrade it the same as I would the others?
I have a VTEC.
#3
the 4th cable goes to your starter. the starter has a direct connection to the engine.
FYI - when doing the big 3, just plan on starting with removing the battery, battery tray, and intake (air cleaner housing and hose). that exposes all of the grounding locations you're interested in. the extra 5 min. of work saves you a ton of time and hassle.
in that pic, you need to buy high temperature tech flex (or high-temp split loom), some wire ties, and spend an afternoon of routing cables so they look factory. not only is it messy, it's dangerous. what is the wire laying just above the exhaust headers? additionally, grounding to your strut towers is not as effective. alt chassis - sure. tranny - sure. frame - yes. suspension bolts - not so much. it's on the wrong part of the car - you want to minimize welds between ground points.
wire management + split loom goes a long way. example: here is my battery wiring. 1/0 with fuse holder bolted to battery bracket (but only 100A fuse) - the 1/0 is just for voltage drop and is routed back to fused distribution in the trunk. new 4awg grounds + factory 4 awg grounds.
my big 3 grounding - upgraded battery to tranny, tranny to chassis. reused factory grounding/bonding locations and bolts.
FYI - when doing the big 3, just plan on starting with removing the battery, battery tray, and intake (air cleaner housing and hose). that exposes all of the grounding locations you're interested in. the extra 5 min. of work saves you a ton of time and hassle.
in that pic, you need to buy high temperature tech flex (or high-temp split loom), some wire ties, and spend an afternoon of routing cables so they look factory. not only is it messy, it's dangerous. what is the wire laying just above the exhaust headers? additionally, grounding to your strut towers is not as effective. alt chassis - sure. tranny - sure. frame - yes. suspension bolts - not so much. it's on the wrong part of the car - you want to minimize welds between ground points.
wire management + split loom goes a long way. example: here is my battery wiring. 1/0 with fuse holder bolted to battery bracket (but only 100A fuse) - the 1/0 is just for voltage drop and is routed back to fused distribution in the trunk. new 4awg grounds + factory 4 awg grounds.
my big 3 grounding - upgraded battery to tranny, tranny to chassis. reused factory grounding/bonding locations and bolts.
#4
Thanks, Hope. That was extremely helpful. At least I now know what that cable is for. Lol.
Oh, and that picture above from Accord01, that's not his. He was just as confused as me. I think that picture confused him more. Lol. Ya helped us both. Appreciate it.
Oh, and that picture above from Accord01, that's not his. He was just as confused as me. I think that picture confused him more. Lol. Ya helped us both. Appreciate it.
#5
dude thats my car!! lol
Someone told me that they are grounds for my electrical system so when I get a Sound System it wont interfere with my headlights, tail lights, dash lights, or any other electrical stuff. So win win, im keepin it lol FTW
Someone told me that they are grounds for my electrical system so when I get a Sound System it wont interfere with my headlights, tail lights, dash lights, or any other electrical stuff. So win win, im keepin it lol FTW
Last edited by 01Accord01; 03-05-2010 at 08:58 AM.
#8
i knew who's car it was.
upgraded grounds will help lower overall electrical resistance for the car's electrical system, but in the above case those grounds should be cleaned up. no offense, but I consider that an example of how NOT to execute the Big 3.
I believe that you should add wiring to the car in the same manner as they do in the factory. wiring should be protected, logically routed, and secured to prevent moving cables.
upgraded grounds will help lower overall electrical resistance for the car's electrical system, but in the above case those grounds should be cleaned up. no offense, but I consider that an example of how NOT to execute the Big 3.
I believe that you should add wiring to the car in the same manner as they do in the factory. wiring should be protected, logically routed, and secured to prevent moving cables.
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