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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #21  
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well I installed one side today, kind of. I was planning on making a baffle for it like you did, but the ring around the speaker where all the holes are for mounting it is wide enough so it ends just inside the factory holes in the door. This meant for me that I couldn't make a baffle easily. I ended up, using screws in the factory locations with washers as spacers and a washer on the very end so it would grip the outer edge of the speaker and hold it. This way did work, but I am not happy with the way it looks. I will most likely find a way to make it a little better in the future.

Also I cut off the factory plug and wired it to the factory wiring.
 
Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #22  
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you need to ensure an airtight seal between the speaker and door metal, at a minimum. then more weathestripping foam between the speaker and the factory door panel. that is the least you can get away with.

the baffle is the same in our cars, you just cut a piece just a bit larger than the factory speaker outline, then cut out a hole for your new speaker in the middle. it may be fairly thin on the sides, but that's ok.

i have also just used the trim ring and and weatherstripping foam to mount the speaker (while using 3/4" closed cell foam for extra depth). this worked ok for a year or so before i did it better.

no baffle here, just trim rings and foam:


 
Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #23  
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I'll probably go back and fix it when I get more time and do the other side. I was in a hurry when I did the first side and regret it now.
 
Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:42 PM
  #24  
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nothing to regret, it's a learning process. the things i advise people not to do are usually things i've done before. in over 16 years, i've had my share of trial and error. but each one is a learning opportunity.

good car audio is not easy plug and play. it requires time and effort - testing and adjusting.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #25  
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Installed them yesterday and am alot happier. Used some 3/4" press board we had laying around the house. It was pretty dense so I figured it would work fine. Went ahead an ran new wire all the way to the head unit so I wouldn't have to mess with disconnecting the factory tweeters.

The only thing i was disappointed about was the crappy wire that RF supplied with the speakers. It is a very thing gauge wire. I used it anyway and it sounds fine, but I always thought of RF as a good company and them giving me POS speaker wire disappoints me.

It sounds great though. My next project will be putting a sub in the trunk. My cousin has a 10" RF P2 sub that hes going to give me. Now I just have to find the right amp.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #26  
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Yea, 18 gauge is common in the box. I like 16 gauge minimum, 14 gauge preferred.
 
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #27  
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The insulation might make you think its 18ga but the wire inside looks at least 20
 
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #28  
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Wow, that's pretty cheap!
 
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 07:37 AM
  #29  
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Yea when I put an amp on them im going to run new wire. Where do you buy your crimp on connectors for the wire? I have tons of the larger size but none that will fit the small connector on the negative terminal.
 
Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #30  
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I buy most of my installation parts from either Parts Express or MCM Electronics.
 
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