Just have your battery and alt load tested at a local auto parts store. A good starting battery is important. A volt meter in the dash is also good to have. Below 12volts is bad and a sign to turn it down.

Did you verify sub impedance and amp impedance?

 

The sub impedance confuses me a bit. It's rated as such: 1.8 Ω / coil (3.7 Ω in series)

While the amp is rated at 1000w @ 2ohms with 1500w @ 1ohm

edit: Would something such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Bat...=pd_sim_auto_1 be suitable to monitor the voltage?

 

you will wire the voice coils in parallel for about 1 ohm mono load on the amp.

yes, that volt meter will be fine, won't tell you voltage at the amp, but will tell you battery voltage.

 

Seeing how the dealer says it's only $20 more, I'd love to go for the 15" model of the sub, but I don't know if my trunk will be able to fit it if I go ported.

The new accords have 14.7cf of space, but its shape is so irregular I don't think I'd know until I put it in. For a ported enclosure the sub specs are 3.0 - 5.0 CF yet I believe that's airspace wise?

 

That is a huge box. Difficult to fit due to height. You want 18" of height to fit a 15 vertically. Or do IB like I did and save the enclosure.

 

Decided to go with the 12" to avoid any issues. I also just purchased a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D for a great price.

It was a bad idea to go for 4awg wire at first since it didn't leave much room for upgrading and I plan to remove these horrible stock mids eventually anyway. Since I would need new fuse holders an whatnot, would this power kit suffice? http://www.amazon.com/PSK00B-Power-S.../ref=de_a_smtd

I'm trying to find a good shop around my area to work on sound deadening and whatnot as well. No Idea how to get the most output out of my sub either. I'd love if I could get it pushing out towards the cabin from the rear deck somehow.

 

Still a ways off, but I was plotting the speaker upgrades as well. These bad boys caught my eye: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9626-esk...nt-system.aspx

Not sure where I'd have the shop put the midrange exactly.

Edit: Also, I think I'm going to upgrade to a Stinger 1/0AWG kit. I have about $130 worth of Amazon credit I wanted to splurge on deadening material. I remember you mentioned a cheap yet effective brand in another thread. I definitely plan on using some on my front doors, but is it worth it to do the trunk as well?

 

for deadening - look for Raammaudio BXT II. awesome stuff.

I like that 3-way package and the price is amazing. it is in-line with the ESK product. I will say this - the midbass and midrange are great. The tweeter is SUPER bright. you don't aim them at you. I would buy that set and replace the tweeter. Nice find! You won't get a better set at a cheaper price.

The 4" should go in the kicks, aimed at the dome light. make that happen and you'll be very happy.

 

Thanks for the reply! Any tweeters you'd recommend that could fit snug in the stock location?

 

Stock tweeters are usually too small for my liking, most are 3/4". I like 1-1/8" silk dome tweeters. There is usually some modification to the factory mount, I don't like pu ttinng tweeters behind stock grills either, too restrictive.

With s 3-way you don't need as large of a tweeter since you use a higher crossover point. But then you can't use them as a 2-way as effectively. So you can run a 3/4" tweeter if you stay with the 3-way.

Pates Express sells tweeters:
Morel
Dayton Audio
Vifa

You just need to be careful that you replace the tweeter with the same impedance. If not, you need to run it active or use a separate crossover.