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  #11  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply, KHA.

Could you elaborate more on speakers at the kicks? From my understanding, there's just so much interference from a person's body as well as phase issues with the door woofers that I don't understand how this works well (note: I've seen several builds with speakers at the kicks and they have good reviews; I'm just trying to understand this better from an acoustics standpoint).

As for the woofers under the dash, I should have pointed out earlier that they'll be crossover'd pretty low (around 150-200Hz with a rolloff at 60Hz perhaps; maybe summed to mono?; specifics TBD), so I'm using them essentially as "high frequency" "subs". The midranges and tweets will take care of the "main" frequency range, and the sub in the trunk will take care of low end bass.
 
  #12  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:50 PM
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I looked through your 2001 Accord build and it's definitely a well-executed, extensive build. What stood out to me was the sub that peeked through the rear center seat. Are you essentially using the trunk space as the sub enclosure? Also, what are your thoughts on the effectiveness of that design (vs. traditional sub-in-trunk designs)?
 
  #13  
Old 02-17-2015, 01:40 PM
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having the sub as IB is superior to an enclosure. i loved it and will do it again.

what hurts us with a box is cancellation in the trunk. IB doesn't suffer that fate.
 
  #14  
Old 06-16-2015, 11:15 PM
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KHA I do not have an accord but I have been reading this forum and you seem to have a good idea of what works. I was wondering if you could help steer me in the right direction, I have a toyota 4runner 2011, I currently have an Apine INE-940 connected to a JL Audio XD700/5 and polk audio mm650 component speakers up front and polk audio dxi6500 in the rear and a JL audio Microsub. I am very happy with the way things sound, however I really would like to go back to the Stock Stereo, I had tried before using an Audio Control LC6i but I was never happy with the results, there was a constant hiss that drove me crazy and the music never sounded right, it did not have a full sound. I have been reading up on several sound processors, JBL MS-8 seems to be what I am looking for, however I have also seen the RF 3sixty3 and Audison Bit 10, do you have experience with all of these? could you recommend one? Will I be able to get the same or close to the results I have with using the Alpine aftermarket HU?
Thank you.
 
  #15  
Old 06-19-2015, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by axxman
KHA I do not have an accord but I have been reading this forum and you seem to have a good idea of what works. I was wondering if you could help steer me in the right direction, I have a toyota 4runner 2011, I currently have an Apine INE-940 connected to a JL Audio XD700/5 and polk audio mm650 component speakers up front and polk audio dxi6500 in the rear and a JL audio Microsub. I am very happy with the way things sound, however I really would like to go back to the Stock Stereo, I had tried before using an Audio Control LC6i but I was never happy with the results, there was a constant hiss that drove me crazy and the music never sounded right, it did not have a full sound. I have been reading up on several sound processors, JBL MS-8 seems to be what I am looking for, however I have also seen the RF 3sixty3 and Audison Bit 10, do you have experience with all of these? could you recommend one? Will I be able to get the same or close to the results I have with using the Alpine aftermarket HU?
Thank you.
Thanks for the complement.

The RF 3sixty3 is pretty handy but requires a PC (as does the Bit 10). They are fully manual tuning. The MS-8 has a controller and offers automatic tuning. The Alpine PXA-H800 has either PC tuning or RUX-C800 controller tuning (the most useful controller on the market).

Which to get depends on how you plan on using it, how you want to tune it, and if you want auto-tuning functions.
 
  #16  
Old 06-19-2015, 05:33 PM
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KHA thanks for the reply,
I do not listen to my stereo very loud often, I like clear sound without noise. that is why I ditched the LC6i it had a "hiss" that I could not get rid of, and it did not reproduce the sound as good as I would have liked.

My goals are to keep the sound quality as good as my alpine or close to it. and to not have any noise in the system. I dont like to fiddle with settings often, I want to set up once and leave it. I have a control know off the amp for the subwoofer, I used that to back the bass off when it gets to boomy, but other than bass and trebel controls. I like to set and forget.

PC setup is not an issue for me I have mac and PC available and I know how to use them. it sounds to me you like all of the audio processors mentioned, is one better or worse than the other, the JBL ms-8 I do not think it is still in production. The audison looks very good as well but it doesnt seem broadly supported, the only place I have found to buy one is ebay. the alpine, looks good but is it still in production? or will they replace it with a newer model soon, I always liked alpine stuff but I have found over the years they don't support things very long.

So if I understand correctly, the Rockford 360-3 and the bit 10 are manual tuning, the JBL is automatic and the alpine is ?? I like the idea of having an automatic setup to get me close then I fine tune things from there, is that what you mean?

Thank you,
 
  #17  
Old 06-21-2015, 02:17 AM
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The MS-8 is a nice piece, regardless of production. It can still be found at a discount.

The Audison is very well supported but sold through authorized dealers. See if one is near you otherwise you could contact my local dealer (where i buy my stuff).

The Alpine is the newest model, and still fairly new to market. I own it and am going to use it personally. I liked it above all others and could have bought any of the others instead. I've ran two previous Alpine processors (ERA-G320 and PXA-H701) but those didn't need "support". Pac-Parts sells replacement parts.

Zapco, PPI, and Helix all have processors as well and they all get good reviews. These are also manual tuning.

JBL and Alpine offer auto-tuning where the system measured the acoustics of the cabin, speaker response, and speaker time arrivals and tunes the car for you. The JBL offers EQ after tuning. The Alpine lets you do whatever you want.

If you go Alpine, you want the controller. But a grand is a lot for a processor. If you can live with PC manual tuning you can get a lot of functionality for under $400.
 
  #18  
Old 06-21-2015, 12:52 PM
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Thank you,

I think I have narrowed it down, I agree the Alpine would cost too much for me, I like the MS-8 and the RF 3Sixty.3 I watched several videos on both, I thought the RF set up as far as using the software is pretty strait forward. I think I prefer the RF but both get to a point where they are set up with the system normalized and the guy in the video says "ok now you can start tuning the 31 band equalizer" So I think what I have arrived at is I am going to have to learn what that is all about and how to do it. I am sure there are some good video's and online info about this.

my last question I have is about these remotes, once you have these things set up and tuned, is it necessary to have the remotes connected for volume adjustment? or will I still be able to use the volume adjustment on my oem stereo? I mean, one of the reasons I am doing this is so I have my factory setup and can use the steering wheel controls.
 
  #19  
Old 06-22-2015, 01:29 PM
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yes, you can use the volume control on your factory radio. just be aware of the resulting "maximum" volume you can use before you introduce distortion. i never exceed 75% volume on a stock head unit and try to stay below 50% volume.

There are a series of YouTube videos from Kyle that explain how to make adjustments when tuning a car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i8cxJaDyjg

The 3Sixty.3 is a nice piece. Having a remote unit with input and preset access is one of it's best features that sets it apart from the competition at that price point.
 
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