Here we go again....

 

Haha! [sm=bicker.gif]
I have not done the big 3, but I have read good reviews about it. Several guys on another forum were experiencing lights dimming from sound systems and all they did was the big 3 and problem solved. That's why I posted the link to the big 3 in the beginning. I am not taking sides here, I'm just showing you what I read. I don't really see how the big 3 could put strain on your alternator either[:'(]

 

 

you dont even need 0awg wire for grounding those out, grounding like that is in consideration of over 300amps which nothing in the car will have that much current running through it that would need that kind of grounding, thats just one of those over kill things that make people go, "dude look at that"
and i never said it was going to toast your alternator
and by saying theres no fact its like saying caps have no use in electronics, there is more then enough fact behind what its suppose to be used for, their purpose was kinda defined a while ago

 

I dont know a lot of theory and physics but Ive seen a lot of SPL competitors cars and most of them use very heavy duty batteries, aftermarket alternators and about 25,000 watts. No caps.

Caps are more of a band aid. Nothing wrong with them but nothing really right about them either. If youre charging system is up to snuff there is no need for a cap. If you have charging issues, youre always much better off by doing the Big 3, and using a higher powered alternator and battery.

Honestly tho, if youre listening to music at NORMAL levels and not trying to be the loudest guy on the block, your stock charging system will work just fine. I know several SQ competitors that are running 3000 watts on the OEM battery and alternator and have no issues. But then again they dont drive around listening to Bass Mechanik CD's at full volume either. Heck, Im running 700 watts and using the stock 400 amp battery and alt and have no issues.

And as far as too large a gauge wire - there is no such thing. Resistance is the key here.

For example - say youre drawing 80 amps. Thats about 600-800 watts. Thru 10 feet of 8 gauge wire youll drop 1 volt. Thats pretty substantial going from 12.5 down to 11.5. Now say you use 1/0 gauge for the same 10' run. You now lose .1 volts. Essentialy you get the same voltage at the end of the run as you do at the beginning.

 

wow this thread is growing. when i said strain the alt I was refering to him running 2 bats off factory alt, if he decided to run with bothstock and a yellow top

 

the 0 awg was in reference to grounding, not powering, SPL competition does not mean street beat spl isnt run for 30+ minutes at a time, actually...... how many people do you know street beating 25kwatts?

 

Thanks for all the info guys! This thing grew quite popular quickly!

Basically, I have a a little bit of tach bounce but not much, and thats with the bass quite high. I need a new battery soon anyways, so maybe Ill upgrade the wires and stuff too. I already have a 1 farad cap.
Are there any other batteries near the Optimas performance for cheap?

 

I didn't know suggesting the big 3 would cause such a controversy! One reason I suggested it isbecause you can do it yourselffor around $25.
I hope you find what you are looking for!![sm=signs003.gif]

 

no, you may not NEED 0awg, but what if u plan to upgrade later? redo big 3? why not just keep it at 0awg, its easier and not that much more expensive. not everything is for show. and 300amps isnt far fetched at all when your talking about car audio

caps serve a purpose, yes, but theres just the question if they do more harm than good. no, theyre not gonna destroy your car or anything. but its more work for the alt to do b/c what? you dont like some dimming? i personally would rather just do big3 and HO alt. a cap is just gonna help with 1 or 2 large current draws. if your system is slamming while your sitting at a light, your lights will dim no matter how many caps you have. caps arent bats, they immediately release the charge stored in them