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1998-1999 Acoord Clutch pedal noise fix

Old 08-17-2009, 02:03 PM
deserthonda's Avatar
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Default 1998-1999 Acoord Clutch pedal noise fix

July 16, 2004

Applies To:
1998-99 Accord With M/T - ALL

Clutch Pedal Noise
(Supersedes 98-084, dated October 7, 2003)


A squeak or groan when you press the clutch pedal. The pedal may also feel notchy as it travels. This noise usually happens in warm weather.


The walls of the nylon clutch master cylinder are rough, causing excessive friction on the piston.


Replace the clutch hydraulic system (clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, damper tube, and related parts).






O-RINGS NEED 2 46996-S84-AO1

ROLL PIN 46925-S84-AO1

When this service bulletin was first issued, the parts were available as a kit. The kit had an aluminum-bodied clutch master cylinder, a slave cylinder, a damper tube, and related parts. Later, these kits were discontinued and the kit parts made separately available. The replacement parts currently in stock are for the aluminum-bodied system only and are not compatible with the original system. To complete this repair, you must order and install all of these parts:


Super High Temp Urea Grease:P/N 08798-9002, H/C 3720984

Brake fluid Dot3 dot 4

Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.


1. Remove the intake air duct.

* NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it could damage the paint. If brake fluid contacts the paint, wash it off immediately with water.

2. Use a syringe to remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

3. Disconnect the reservoir hose from the clutch master cylinder. Use a shop towel to plug the end of the hose to keep brake fluid from coming out.

4. Remove the lock pin and the pedal pin from the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Remove the two clutch master cylinder mounting nuts.

5. Release the clutch line from the engine compartment bulkhead (two clips).

6. Remove the two slave cylinder mounting bolts and the two clutch line mounting bolts.

7. Remove the clutch line, the master cylinder, and the slave cylinder from the vehicle as a unit.

8. Lay the new clutch line on the work bench. Install the new clutch master cylinder onto the end of the line with a new 0-ring. Secure the line to the clutch master cylinder with the new retaining clip.

9. Install the new slave cylinder onto the other end of the clutch line with another new 0-ring. Tap in the new roll pin. Apply super high temp urea grease to the end of the pushrod.

10. Position the assembled pieces in the vehicle. Torque the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb-ft). Torque the clutch master cylinder mounting nuts to 13 N.m (9.4 lb-ft). Clip the clutch line to the bulkhead, and install the mounting bolts.

11. Apply multipurpose grease to the pedal pin, then attach the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder pushrod with the pin. Secure the pedal pin with the lock pin.

12. Attach the reservoir hose to the clutch master cylinder. Open a container of Honda DOT 3 brake fluid, and fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

13. Remove the cap from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, and loosen the screw. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw, and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid.

14. Make sure the reservoir has enough brake fluid, then slowly pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose.

NOTICE Do not overtighten the bleeder screw; you could damage the slave cylinder.

15. Torque the bleeder screw to 8 N.m (6 lb-ft), and reinstall the cap.

16. Refill the reservoir.

17. Reinstall the intake air duct.

18. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure the clutch pedal is properly adjusted and works without making noise.*

Last edited by deserthonda; 08-17-2009 at 02:07 PM.
Old 08-18-2009, 09:22 AM
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bluegrass state
Posts: 12
Default 1998-1999 Acoord Clutch pedal noise fix

Service Bulletin 98-084 may be found here about half way down the page:

The SB is self explanatory. However, should either your original plastic body clutch master cylinder or slave master cylinder fail for any reason other than the symptoms described in the SB, prepare to replace all the listed parts except the original [“Connector Clip/Retaining Clip: P/N 46924-S84-A02, H/C 6271357] which can be reused.

The original Clutch Line (Damper Tube Assembly) is pre-formed differently partially due to the connection location of the Reservoir Hose and Clutch Line on the MC which are reversed on the upgraded aluminum body units. Reusing the original clutch line will require reforming the copper tubing to move the clutch line connection to the front of the MC which can be quite problematic, if you break or pinch the line you will surely regret why you did not order the clutch line. By all means, give it a try but I do not recommend it as your clutch may not work properly. The clutch line is a part of a hydraulic system designed with a specific length to interact with the MC and SC to provide a specific liquid pressure. Note that all pressure (head) losses due to the fittings and the bends in the line have all been accounted for in the design of the clutch line. The clutch line is not threaded into MC or SC. The line is secured by a Retaining Clip at the MC and a Roll Pin at the SC. The lines are sealed by two O-Rings, one at each end. However, the new clutch line fitting to the SC uses two nuts just above the fitting (see the diagram in section 17 of the SB). These allow the line to be disconnected from the SC without having to remove the SC itself to tap the Roll Pin out with a punch to disconnect the fitting.

The original clutch line is secured on the fire wall with two clips. Do not worry about securing the new clutch line back in these clips. Just use the two clutch line mounting bolts to the left of the transmission. The new line fits nicely under the bell housing without having to use the clips. Once disconnected from the MC and SC, pull the original clutch line out from the driver side and route the new line back in from the same side. With the SC properly installed and connected to the clutch line, I first mounted the MC then connected the new clutch line. Refitting the retaining clip requires long nose pliers and a bit of patience. Lastly I connected the reservoir hose and filled the system with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Please note that you need two people to bleed the system. In my case even with two people this was tricky. We could not get the fluid pressure up in the line until I used a pressure bleeder which due to lack of proper fitting, I just hand held on top of the reservoir tight enough to pump some fluid into the system which finally filled the system and allowed us to bleed the line as described in the SB. No adjustment of the clutch pedal height was necessary in my case.

The whole job took me about 2.5 hours.

Last edited by alfi; 08-19-2009 at 04:54 PM. Reason: typo
Old 10-09-2009, 07:23 AM
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Default 1998 1999 Acoord Clutch pedal noise fix

What a champion This guy comes to the Clutch Pedal Snapped thread and stfuppercutted everyone who was arguing.

Great DIY, this will be of enormous help to everyone
Old 12-02-2009, 12:39 AM
WheelBrokerAng's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canton/Massillon, Ohio 44646
Posts: 30,431

As you can see , that is why we have one of the best forums for Accords on the web...
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