@JimBlake the starter is a rebuilt starter purchased from an auto parts shop. We specified it was for a manual transmission, but who knows if they sold us the correct one. After the starter didn’t fix the problem, I tested the old starter and it spun and the gear started to pop out as I removed the wire jumping the blade connector.

the ignition switch and connected wire was the first thing that was replaced. So that shouldn’t be it. The fuse that didn’t light is on the drivers side and is the #13 on the diagram. The starter cut relay was pulled and using a 9 volt battery I tested the relay and heard it click when voltage was applied. I think that indicates the relay is ok. I did not test the socket itself. I will have to try that tomorrow evening. It was pouring rain here this afternoon and evening so didn’t get a chance to check anything tonight.

 

Re-check the relay. Hearing it click is good; but then you should check for continuity between the other 2 terminals.

 

@JimBlake We found the culprit. The clutch interlock switch may have been bad. I purchased a new one, but before replacing I saw a video of someone putting a wire in the plug in order to bypass the switch. Maybe I did it wrong or the wire wasn’t making good contact as this didn’t work. I plugged the new one in and held the button with one hand, the car in neutral and turning the key in the other the car started or tried to. All the messing around had drained the battery.

I pulled the old one and installed the new one. Tried again and nothing. Pushing by hand worked though. Leads me to suspect either the clutch pedal bracket moved or the pedal itself is bent perhaps. It’s pretty tight in there so it is near impossible for me to see behind the bracket. Not sure how big of a job it is to adjust or remove and fix/ replace. Any advice there?

 

I haven't done this myself so I can't say for sure whether I understand it completely... But here's the instructions.


The clutch has 2 switches, and the one labeled "B" is to switch off the cruise control so ignore that switch for now...

The clutch interlock switch (for the starting circuit) is labeled "I" and it way up above the hinge of the pedal. There's a "clutch-helper spring" up there, and some kind of extra tab or lever that pushes against switch-"I". Check those things out.

On the brake pedal, and on the lower clutch switch, there's a little plastic button that presses against the switch. That plastic button can come loose, break, or fall off. I imagine that can also happen for the clutch-interlock switch.