2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
#23
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
Okay, [sm=dontgetit.gif], if you want to beat this guy's nova with "rice" forget the accord. Get something that's actually a little more rice and a little less family. You can get a CRX drop a 'lude engine in and be running pretty damn fast with the right tires. Not enough to beat the Nova still? Beef the internals a bit and throw some nitrous at it. You'll get it then. Or grab a used 300zx twin turbo for 8500 bucks and go at him then. Those things ran almost 12s bone stock. Just go get a tune up and smoke his ***.
The deal with that Nova is he's going to have an issue hooking up if he's running street tires, the things going to have so much torque he'll be halfway through the tread on em before he even gets moving, now lets hope he's a little smarter than this and doesn't launch at red line, he's still going to have issues hooking up regardless.
The quickest car in my area for a honda is a civic hatch back with a ls/gsr hybrid with a t3/t4 turbo, built, sleeved, polished, the whole bit. He runs an 11.3. That's pretty quick. However, our buddy has a 350z with a 75 shot and smokes him every time. And that 350 weighs a ton more. Of course, that 350 gets its *** handed to it every time it races against the Porche 911 twin turbo that the owner of the local speed shop races. He's running a 10.3 OUCH! that car is quick.
anyways, the accord is more than likely NEVER going to beat this nova unless the nova throws a rod off the line, and even then the initial torque is probably going to hurl it over the finish line 12 car lengths in front of the accord. I'm not saying that the accord could never beat it but, there is a lot more "rice" out there that would be easier to do it in. How bout a 240 with a rb26dett? Or an old school 280 with a 350 conversion swap and a 383 stroker kit. That will kick the crap out of that nova!
Still loving my accord because it looks nice
The deal with that Nova is he's going to have an issue hooking up if he's running street tires, the things going to have so much torque he'll be halfway through the tread on em before he even gets moving, now lets hope he's a little smarter than this and doesn't launch at red line, he's still going to have issues hooking up regardless.
The quickest car in my area for a honda is a civic hatch back with a ls/gsr hybrid with a t3/t4 turbo, built, sleeved, polished, the whole bit. He runs an 11.3. That's pretty quick. However, our buddy has a 350z with a 75 shot and smokes him every time. And that 350 weighs a ton more. Of course, that 350 gets its *** handed to it every time it races against the Porche 911 twin turbo that the owner of the local speed shop races. He's running a 10.3 OUCH! that car is quick.
anyways, the accord is more than likely NEVER going to beat this nova unless the nova throws a rod off the line, and even then the initial torque is probably going to hurl it over the finish line 12 car lengths in front of the accord. I'm not saying that the accord could never beat it but, there is a lot more "rice" out there that would be easier to do it in. How bout a 240 with a rb26dett? Or an old school 280 with a 350 conversion swap and a 383 stroker kit. That will kick the crap out of that nova!
Still loving my accord because it looks nice
#24
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
ORIGINAL: BlkCurrantKord
A lot of that is overkill and not explained very well.
ORIGINAL: falkore24
no accord will do 10 seconds! too much wind resistance! with the nitrous, the weakest point is the piston since it will be getting hit with cutting torch heat ..... wet systems keep this to a lower temp, but still very hot. If you use forged internals, a low compression piston and tack weld in a block guard, you will be able to run a good race. You will also need poly engine mounts, 2 torsion dampers and a launch style linear spring suspension. A CF hood and trunk would help a little, and electronics are a must .... ZEX plugs only b/c the ignition system that you will need will burn off an iridium tip. What else ..... E-Manage, MSD or Jacobs (with launch control), one of those specialized nitrous controllers with WOT and window switches that vary by gear .... nice project!!!
no accord will do 10 seconds! too much wind resistance! with the nitrous, the weakest point is the piston since it will be getting hit with cutting torch heat ..... wet systems keep this to a lower temp, but still very hot. If you use forged internals, a low compression piston and tack weld in a block guard, you will be able to run a good race. You will also need poly engine mounts, 2 torsion dampers and a launch style linear spring suspension. A CF hood and trunk would help a little, and electronics are a must .... ZEX plugs only b/c the ignition system that you will need will burn off an iridium tip. What else ..... E-Manage, MSD or Jacobs (with launch control), one of those specialized nitrous controllers with WOT and window switches that vary by gear .... nice project!!!
#25
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
ok the main thisg here is that if you want to run a turbo and nitrous you will first need to weld supports in the space between the block and the cylinder sleeve caus if you don't that sleeve will wander and you could have issues, that is if you are set on sticking with the f22 motor. the best option and maby the cheapest would be to order a jdm motor for an early 90's body style accord sir-t with an ecu. The sir-t motor that came in those was a turbo 2.3L. of course you will need to upgrade the turbo on the new motor as well as an intercoller. that could be enough right there, but who knows i could be drunk!!!!!!
#26
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
The only way...and I mean ONLY way an accord will be a 10 second car is if it was changed into a fully built race car and converted to a RWD.
Regardless of how much power you put into a FWD car, it's main problem is gonna be the launch. When you launch a car weight is transferred to the rear of the vehicle which lightens the front. That produces less traction.
BUT
If you want a pretty impressive Accord
Swap in a H23 (NON VTEC)
Turbo
60-80 shot of spray.
That would equate to about 350+ HP
Regardless of how much power you put into a FWD car, it's main problem is gonna be the launch. When you launch a car weight is transferred to the rear of the vehicle which lightens the front. That produces less traction.
BUT
If you want a pretty impressive Accord
Swap in a H23 (NON VTEC)
Turbo
60-80 shot of spray.
That would equate to about 350+ HP
#27
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
ORIGINAL: falkore24
That said, what parts don't you agree with
That said, what parts don't you agree with
So far...just about every response I've read. The 2 above me are quite hilarious. I could go in depth about them if you (or anyone else) would like.
#29
RE: 2.2 vs. 2.7 Worth It?
ORIGINAL: wingedwonder69
ok the main thisg here is that if you want to run a turbo and nitrous you will first need to weld supports in the space between the block and the cylinder sleeve caus if you don't that sleeve will wander and you could have issues, that is if you are set on sticking with the f22 motor. the best option and maby the cheapest would be to order a jdm motor for an early 90's body style accord sir-t with an ecu. The sir-t motor that came in those was a turbo 2.3L. of course you will need to upgrade the turbo on the new motor as well as an intercoller. that could be enough right there, but who knows i could be drunk!!!!!!
ok the main thisg here is that if you want to run a turbo and nitrous you will first need to weld supports in the space between the block and the cylinder sleeve caus if you don't that sleeve will wander and you could have issues, that is if you are set on sticking with the f22 motor. the best option and maby the cheapest would be to order a jdm motor for an early 90's body style accord sir-t with an ecu. The sir-t motor that came in those was a turbo 2.3L. of course you will need to upgrade the turbo on the new motor as well as an intercoller. that could be enough right there, but who knows i could be drunk!!!!!!
Everything there is so wrong I hope you were completely drunk when you typed that.
ORIGINAL : blacknight07644
The only way...and I mean ONLY way an accord will be a 10 second car is if it was changed into a fully built race car and converted to a RWD.
Regardless of how much power you put into a FWD car, it's main problem is gonna be the launch. When you launch a car weight is transferred to the rear of the vehicle which lightens the front. That produces less traction.
BUT
If you want a pretty impressive Accord
Swap in a H23 (NON VTEC)
Turbo
60-80 shot of spray.
That would equate to about 350+ HP
The only way...and I mean ONLY way an accord will be a 10 second car is if it was changed into a fully built race car and converted to a RWD.
Regardless of how much power you put into a FWD car, it's main problem is gonna be the launch. When you launch a car weight is transferred to the rear of the vehicle which lightens the front. That produces less traction.
BUT
If you want a pretty impressive Accord
Swap in a H23 (NON VTEC)
Turbo
60-80 shot of spray.
That would equate to about 350+ HP
Look at every single civic and integra that drag races (not professionals) and look at their setup. All it takes is for accord owners to essentially copy what they're already doing and have been doing and adapt it to the accord chassis's. The only thing that's a real difference is that we need more power than they do.
Dry system - Injects nitrous ONLY. Nozzle(s) mounted in your intake. Relies on your own fuel system to supply enough fuel to compensate for the added o2. If it doesn't add enough fuel, thats how you melt a piston, its called detonation.
Wet system - Injects nitrous and fuel together. Properly matched fuel and nitrous jets in the nozzle(s) mountedin the intake. Safest way to run nitrous for the street.
Direct port - Individually placed nozzles in each intake runner inject both nitrous and fuel for each cylinder. Basically a wet system for each cylinder.Creates the most power.
Window switches allow those with an automatic a safer way to run nitrous, it momentarily shuts off the nitrous when the transmission is going to shift gears so that you're not spraying during shifts. That's how you blow your transmission.
Low compression pistons should only be used if you're running boost or a combination of boost and nitrous. Nitrous by itself works best with high compression. Think I'm wrong? Look at any v8 dragster. High compressionand nitrous.