Using the OBD I codes, fuel injetors (16) and Evap (90). If you could get the actual codes read, someplaces do it for free, they maybe a little more descriptive....they begin with a "P" and four digits....ie, P1456.

 

While driving, suddenly the car begins to lose power and begins to slow down. All the gauges drop to zero and the digital odometer goes blank. A green key symbol and check engine light flash. The AC and radio are still on. This has not happened at night...so I don't know if the headlights would go off or not. The first few times, I thought the car had died and...I was able to pop the clutch and got it going again. I now think that was coincidental. It wasn't until a few times later that I keyed the car and it made the noise a starter makes when you key it and it is already started.
I took it to an aftermarket repair shop...they kept it all day and couldn't find anything wrong. It wouldn't code while on the diagnostic machine. They charged me a diagnostic fee and sent me on my way.
It continued to happen so I called Honda. They assured me they had better equipment and experience for my car than an aftermarket shop. They also kept my car all day and decided my car key was wore out. The sensors had gone bad in the key and weren’t talking to the computer properly. They charged me $140.00 for a new key and sent me on my way. I did notice instantly the new key made an improvement. I had struggled unlocking the driver’s door and hadn't been able to unlock the passenger door for a year or so. I thought the door locks were worn out and instantly...they were like new locks.
It was a good month or so before it started losing power again. Sometimes, only for a few seconds and then pick back up. This past week in Dallas traffic...I was almost ran over by an 18-wheeler. It's becoming very dangerous and I can't afford a new car. I do sales work and drive for a living.
I plan to look into the relay switch. My alternator was replaced about 14 months ago. When it went out...it was nothing like this. The lights would flash and the starter made a clink noise. That happened a few times and then went completely out in the middle of an intersection while turning left. A passerby pushed me out up into a parking lot.
Sorry to be so wordy...trying to explain all that has taken place. Will gratefully welcome any suggestions.

 

Mine was the ignition switch was going bad. Car runs fine and then just shut off. I replace the ignition switch and it fixed the problem.

 

I see alot of posts related to this but not exactly what I am experiencing. While driving and then letting off of the gas the car will lose power and all of the dash lights come on but lately if I push on the gas pedal it will regain power and all of the lights will go off, without touching the ignition. It is sporadic and driving me crazy. Sometimes when I go to start the engine after it is warm it will shut down immediately but the next time I turn the key it starts fine. Sometimes the car will shut down while coming to a stop and then I have to turn the ignition to get it started and no issue starting it. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.

 

See if you can get it to act flaky by wiggling the key. Flaky ignition switches are not very rare. (If you cannot get it to act up wiggling the key, that does NOT prove the switch is OK)

Another thing would be the main relay. It "seems unusual" for that to cause problems when the car is already running, but that doesn't absolutely rule it out.

Maybe LESS likely is the idle-control system acting up. Check out this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/

 

There is a recall for the 1999 Honda Accord ignition switch. I bought mine in 2012 and was not told about it, so my car suddenly quit while driving. I pulled over, put it in Park and the car starts right up again. Found out others had this problem at a site called Honda Tech. Then I called the main Honda phone, gave them the VIN and they said the switch was replaced in 2009. I went to the Honda dealer and it was replaced again for free in 2014. However: Just because the switch was replaced before doesn't mean that it is not the problem, Honda didn't "upgrade" the switch, they replace it with the same design.- I am still having the problem and now need to replace the Immobilizer Unit, Part No. 39730-S84-A02, List price $82.08, Our price: $57.46 at
Hondaautomotiveparts.com
It is the electrical part that attaches to the ignition switch and sends the signal from the computer chip in the key. When it loses the signal the car shuts off. Unfortunately this part is not covered under the recall. I made sure to get the lower price for the part by showing the above info to my dealer. It will still cost $120 for installation.

 

Interesting because most people have not been able to get it replaced for free a second time.

 

They probably went straight to the dealer with the problem instead of calling Honda itself. - I called Honda, gave them my VIN, then with the recall info made an appt. with the dealer. - You do have to agree to a $120 diagnostic to prove the problem is related to the recall. But if it does, they do not charge you anything. Here is the recall.
Original Recall from the NHTSA
Model Year(s): 1997, 1998, 1999
Mfr's Report Date:
June 14, 2002
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 02V120000
NHTSA Action Number: N/A
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Potential Number of Units Affected: 1000000
Summary: ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence: WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Notes: CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

 

The Immobilizer unit did not cure the problem of the car randomly quitting. In fact it continued to get worse. So Honda "recommended" replacing the Ignitor but could not guarantee it would cure the problem, since it is random, so cannot be reproduced. That cost about $400 after labor and taxes, etc.. - Sure enough it quit again! - Honda has had my car almost 2 weeks now, but this time they replaced the faulty ignition switch again with an upgraded one (under the recall). They have road-tested it numerous times during the week and cannot get it to quit. - If they had done this last year I would not have been housebound all Winter for fear of getting killed by driving it. I only went out every few weeks to buy groceries. I also would have been able to pay my heating bill instead of buying parts I did not need. I applied for Heating Assistance, which fortunately I got just in time to prevent a shutoff. - At least they finally came through as I simply cannot afford a different car.

 

I looked up my 1999 Honda LX, 6 cyl coupe and it had an ignition recall, which had been done before I bought it used. But, since I heard it may have been replaced by another defective one, rather than an upgrade, the Honda dealer made a 2nd free replacement. It did not solve my problem. So I had them put in a new "ignitor", attached to the ignition, but not part of the basic recall. That did not solve the problem. Then the dealer suggested something else (can't remember what). That did not fix the problem. Finally, as it started "quitting" more frequently, I felt unsafe driving, so I left it at the dealer. It took them a month to find out the fuel pump was going bad. It was expensive, but I haven't had a problem since.