First off, I appologize in advance for the noob post, but I really just need a quick answer from people who know cars/accords better than I do.


Im having issues with either my battery or alternator, Im not quite sure. Bout a month and a half ago I bought a new battery for my 89 Accord 4 door. Everything was running fine, until one day about a month laterit just wouldnt start. At first I thought it may have just been because it was so cold out ( car tended to act funny in real cold weather) so I just let it be. I use the car sparingly cuz i walk to class most days. Anyway, I went back to try to start it later the same day, and I had no battery power whatsoever. I found this to be strange because it was a brand new battery. ( 3 weeks old max) So today, nearly 6 weeks after buying the battery and about 3 after it not starting I finally had time to get it jumped. I got it jumped, and she ran just fine. I let it charge for a while, drove it for about 10 minutes, then came home. I sat in my car for about another 10 minutes and started it up again. It started fine, no problems whatsoever. So about an hour later, I go to leave thinking my car will start just fine...I get in, try to start it...and it doesnt start. All the lights, and radio work, but slowly faded and in bout 10 minutes, i watched all interior lights turn off.

So this newb is looking for a simple answer. Is my batter just completely dead? or are there alternator issue? I wouldnt imagine it could be the alternator because it starts just fine with a jump, and my battery signal on the dash wasnt on while driving...

Im hoping its simply the battery, which i will return and get replaced for free...Ill check later, but I assume a duralast north has a warranty of at least a year???


Anyway, sorry for the lengthy and hugely noob post, but Im just lookin for a quick answer and some help..

any and all replies are welcome and appreciated!

thanks

 

I'm no pro but my first thought would be to have the battery charged and tested under a load. The place you purchased it will do this for free. If it checks out postively then the charging system is in question. I recently purchased a new battery anda dead cell showed up within a few weeks after starting problems.It was replaced with a new one and all problems were solved. Let's hope that it's just that simple for you.

There are also bad cables, poor contact(s), corrosion,and other possible problems. Check the simple things first.

 

thanks for the reply

I did notice some corrosion on the possitive terminal, none on the negative though. I may need a new clamp/connector, but I had corrosion in the same spot with my old battery and it really had no effect....which is why I think it may just be the battery...

 

The corrosion will always be on the positive terminal. Using a (constantly mixed) combination of baking soda and water will neutralize the corrision but be extremely thorough.

 

oh, didnt know that...thanks.

Ill clean it tomorrow. But do you think that has much to do with my initial problem? I mean it was there on my old battery and my car ran/started fine

 

The corrosion will reach a point where it stops electrical contact between the battery and the cables. It IS NOT worth letting it go that far. Keep the posts greased and corrosion free. You'll enjoy no problem starting regardless of the temperature. Obviously keep the distilled water at the correct level in the battery.

 

alright thanks for the help.

So is it safe to say it is most likely a battery/connection/cable related problem instead of alternator? That would make things easier and cheaper to take care of for sure.

 

Until you have the battery tested there's no way to know.

 

Have the battery AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM tested. From reading this thread, it's still possible for the alternator to be at fault. (Although itsounds like a bad battery.) The place where you got the battery can also test your charging system.

You can also check for electrical loads that don't turn off.ButI thinkyour battery goes dead too fast for this to be caused by your trunk light staying on.

If you have a multi-meter & wanna learn, you can do a reasonable job of testing this yourself. The testing is easy, the trick is interpreting what you measure...

 

I totally agree. My thought was if the battery was bad then that's likely the problem but it does make more sense to have both checked at the same time.