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Bouncing Idle

  #1  
Old 06-06-2013, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Default Bouncing Idle

Hello Everyone,
I'm having an issue with my 96 Honda Accord. Since about late December, i have had an issue with my idle bouncing between 1k and 2k rpms. If the car is cold, when I start her up it idles at about 1700 rpms until she warms up, then the bouncing begins. If it's warm out, she will start bouncing from the moment the engine is started. Since money is tight, I typically get my parts from the pick n pull (knowing that those parts aren't always in working order) and have replaced the map sensor multiple times, replaced the IACV with 2 different parts, checked the hoses, replaced the Fast Idle with 2 different parts, and replaced the TP sensor and throttle body once. fluid is running to each part as required, so it isn't a hose or coolant issue. None of those replacements had any effect in the idle problems. I was wondering if anyone had any better ideas on what I can do to fix the problem, or if any of you have come across this issue in the past. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:37 PM
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Location: Olympia, WA
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Did you bleed your coolant system yet? Important, especially with all of those coolant-fed parts being swapped out.
 
  #3  
Old 06-07-2013, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Default Bouncing Idle

Yeah, i flushed the whole cooling system and refilled it with coolant. No change.
 
  #4  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:07 PM
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Don't take this wrong....but money is tight and you have replace all of those parts?

Anyway, I'll assume this is a 4 cyl and there was no "recent work" done on the car back in the Dec time frame.

Bleeding the cooling system is a bit of a trick on these, not sure how you did it but I'll hit the highlights of how I have done it for years on mine with out any issues.

Car cold. Open the bleeder screw on the t-stat housing, where the lower hose connects. Set the temp to max heat, turn off the ac and the blower motor. Remove rad cap. SLOWLY add coolant unti a steady stream comes out of the bleeder.

Close the bleeder. Replace the cap ONLY to the FIRST CLICK OF THE RAD CAP. Start the car and let it run until the the fans cycle. Depending on outside temps and that this could take 20~25 minutes or more. Keep an eye on the temp gauge as you do this.

Once the fans cycle at least once, I like at least two ot three. Shut the car off. Remove the rad cap -WARNING, the reason you only put it on to the FIRST CLICK is so there is no pressure in the system. HOT coolant will burn you.

Top of the rad and the res and replace the cap all the way.

Let us know what you have from here.
 
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