I read this thread and might see if I can get away with just doing the spring. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-spring-52638/

Main reason for this is because the car was hit a few weeks back and the at fault party's insurance has not gotten around to taking a look at the damage yet. I would like the car to be running when the adjuster comes out just so he doesn't have any extra ammo to give me a low ball offer.... and I love my wagon!

A small noise was heard while on the highway a few nights ago, and about 10 seconds later it stalled out. It was towed to a shop nearby and they have quoted at least a $1k for new springs, cylinder head, gasket kit and possibly more depending on any damage inside. Water pump and timing belt were done about 2 yrs ago. There may have been a small puddle of fluid under the car on the front left side when it was towed but I'm not 100% positive. I forgot to go back and look after it was up on the tow truck.

It has 250k on it and I'm wondering what are the odds that some major damage was done internally. This is better than the timing belt going while cruising, but is it still highly likely that something got bent?

The shop has also been pushing me to scrap it, where they will conveniently handle that process for me and give me $100 on top of wiping out the $85 bill I have already incurred for them diagnosing the problem.

 

If valve spring simply broke, enough may have stayed in place to support the valve,...or not. If valve dropped, damage is highly likely.

Two ways to know 1) remove head and examine or 2) use a borescope to inspect cylinder head and piston for damage.

I think you can probably sell for salvage, pay the shop bill, and still have a few bucks to put in your pocket.

IMO, condition of engine should not affect body repair insurance compensation. I wouldn't volunteer the info for sure.

good luck

 

Even if questioned, you can be perfectly honest saying the engine was running fine when the collision happened.

 

I replaced the spring, and it runs fairly smooth for a few seconds then will almost cut out, then it catches itself and runs smooth again for another few seconds. I'm guessing the seat is out of wack as there is no excess noise from the valve banging on anything and it was able to move freely by hand. Is that a fair diagnosis?

I'm thinking about getting a rebuilt head off eBay for about $200 letting somebody swap it out. That should take care of it once and for all correct?

 

You could check compressions and confirm a leak the suspect cylinder. Also measuring the valve/rocker arm gap may provide a clue to a slightly bent valve (gap will be very large).

Yes, bent valve can only be resolved by pulling head and repairing, or replacing valve, or replacing entire head as you propose.

Be sure you are getting a good head. Once you pull head, it's not a lot of trouble to replace bent valve and reseat all the valves. Cost will be similar in both cases.

Use a quality gasket set; OEM or Felpro.

good luck