I was doing some research and see that the F20B DOHC V-TECH and the H22A are quite similar. I was curious if anyone has swapped in a F20B and if you had any issues with parts and swapping the motor into the car. I have a 95 Accord EX. I have a friend who has an extra H22 trans and ECU was curious if the money I would be saving would be worth it to buy the F20B instead of the H22A. Do all of the H22A parts work on the H22A or would this be similar to the ZC swaps in the Civics?

 

Yeah I have a F20B. Since you are OBD1 it shouldn't be a big issue swapping it in, pretty much the same as a H22 swap. I have a 97 so I just ran into issues with the distributor wiring.

Pretty much all H22 parts will work.

 

Would there will be any issues with the Wiring other than OBD2 to OBD1 conversion? Also do you know if the after market H22 intake manifolds bolt, fuel rails, and Head components work on to the F20B, or would I have to have an adapter made or order parts from Japan (J's Garage or some site like that)

 

The manifolds will work. A fuel rail will work(as long as you aren't using the F20B manifold).

Head are yes and no. H22 cams will work(but f20b comes with probably the best stock cams you can get). The valves are B series size though, so H22 parts wont work but B series will.

 

Thanks for the info i know they(f20b) has the best bottom end of all the motors since it was made to be put in there Race Cars. I planned on putting a Skunk2 Intake Manifold and fuel rail on the f20b. Wish me luck just ordered the motor(longblock) and bought a LSD H22 Trans and ECU.

 

Save your money on the fuel rail...you really don't need it unless you plain on making 4789whp.
lol they put the f20 in the "race cars" to fit them into the 2.0l class. f20 is a destroked h22 same thing just about with smaller bore and valves but they do have (like live2rice said) the best OE cams you can get (JDM h22 cams FTW!). CFM sleeves vs. iron is a total plus when going booooooooost!

 

x2 on the fuel rail not being needed, but the f20b will come with a weird fuel rail, so you might just want to upgrade it.

Where did you order the engine from? did you insure it was the manual version and not automatic(automatic makes 15hp less).

 

i have a 97 like you live2rice and i want to do this swap also,what modifications did you do to get it to bolt up?what mounts would i use? did you modify the wiring harness or did it plug rite up so to speak? any help would be greatly appreciated! oh and also what ecu and tranny would you suggest?

 

I have a 97 accord that used to be an automatic f22b lx model. after the last 3 years worth of building, I now call it the "aem accord" I swapped in an f20b, converted to manual shift and swapped in a t2t4 trans with exedy stage 1 clutch and 12lb chromoly flywheel. I do not believe in using an older generation ecu than what a given motor was originally designed for, and I did not feel like rebuilding the obd2b immobilizer ckt to be able to use factory f20b ecu, so I acquired an aem ems-4, aem epm(optical cam&crank sensors), aem inline uego wideband o2(for ecu, not guage), 4 coils off of a k20/k24 motor, aem fuel pressure regulator, 330cc fuel injectors, 11mm or 7/16 bore obx fuel rail, and to be able to enjoy my real time tuning solution, I built and installed a 64 bit windows 7 ultimate running quad core carpc. I fiberglassed the 7" hdmi touchscreen into the center bezel, and set aemtuner to load at windows startup. what I did is certainly not for the faint of heart or a b or c level tech. but then I am a recertified L1 tech. or so says a.s.e.

the f20b takes an incredible amount of abuse. it is my daily driver and I beat on it every day at every chance I get. for a time I had rev limiter bumped to 9k, and the motor spooled to it beautifully. but on the dyno, the powerband flattened out before 8k, so overrevving isn't worth the accelerated wear. also the f20b runs a higher compression ratio and shorter stroke than the h22. this is important to remember when swapping, especially to an obd1 ecu. the f20b and h22 ignition maps are different and not compatible. a f20b map on an h22 wont make as much power as the h22 could. but an h22 map on an f20b will erode and eventually destroy an f20b because the combustion event will happen before the piston is at tdc. it is very hard to find specific info on the f20b. and what a lot of retarded people claim is that h22 ecu can run an f20b without chipping and tuning.

some things to remember when swapping in f20b is that while the f20b came in a car with electric power steering, the head is the same casting as h22, so p.s. pump and bracket from h22 can be used. and the half of the p.s. line that connects to the h22 and the half of the p.s. line that connect to the car can be made into a line with fresh rubber for oem look, fit, and operation. absolutely nothing needs to be done to the mounts. f20b drops right in bolts right up, and even uses accord axles for the t2t4 trans. the f20b uses high ohm injectors, so if your not building a custom engine harness, the resistor box needs to be eliminated or bypassed. and when setting up the tune, f20b needs vtc engagement later than most other f/h motors, at 5500 rpm. anything sooner, and there will be a dip in power until 5500 rpm. I have played with this on the dyno.

here is my build: My Accord build carputer communicating with ecu REAL TIME TUNING there's not a whole lot I haven't done to this accord. I also made a bunch of suspension upgrades, mounted a digital triple a pillar guage set, installed a router so my car is it's own network, and friends can connect their cellphones to my car for wifi file sharing. I have no head unit, the carpc's motherboard natively supports 5.1 channel home theater, so my carpc plugs directly into 6 channels of amplification and I have home theater in my ride. and my carpc is a full on gaming rig I built. I have skyrim installed in my car with wireless xbox 360 controller and it plays at 1920x1080res with settings at high. carputer with f20b, For The Win!!!!!