KOYO R1494 Radiator Install. Not so OEM
We all know that Koyo aluminum radiators are to be direct fit OEM parts. Well in the case of the CD6 they obviously missed the test fitting stage in the development.
First off, the part number for the OEM spec radiator from Koyo is 1494. While the racing all aluminum one is R1494. The radiator is beautifully polished and has a cool KoyoRad emblem painted on the front of it. Since it's 100% Aluminum it is also super light.
Now,the main problem with the install isthe fact that it's an OEM piece. Koyo replicated all the stock fan mounts for the Cooling fan (pass-side) and the AC condenser fan (driver-side). While they are nice direct fit mounts only the AC fan has a chance in Hell of fitting in the engine bay after the install. The Koyo part is quite simply massive compaired to the stock piece. The R1494 is 53mm while thestocky is maybe 25mm. Its the bottom left mount for the stock un-useable fan that kills it for you. It hits the front cross beam and doesn't alow the Rad to fall into the little seats for it's feets. Oh yeah and the unimportant Drain Plug hits the beam as well! Oh well, time to cut...again on my CD6. With about two inches of good steal lopped off the front cross beam the OEM Rad sits happily in place.
That Damn Fan. With a bit of slight and I mean slight conscious bending of the two metal AC lines that run between theAC fan and the header, you can use an OE AC condenser fan and have about1mm of clearance left.Yea! For theengine cooling fan, you will need an aftermarket Low Profile 12V11-inch fan that either pulls or can be set to pull.Not many sites that sell the R1494 tell you thisbecause they have never tried to get the damn thing in there themselves.I went with an 80 dollar reversable Maradyne11' racing fan that just so happend to come inred.The mountingsolution provided with the fanisdefinately non ideal. Youtake these straightZip ties and fish them through the fan's suppliedmounts. Then through your 300+ dollar radiator, bending fins all the way,untill you seat it with a backing plate on the out comingside. This sandwhiches the radiatorand holds the fan on nothing but thecore its self. I took anothertwo zip ties and loopedthem around the neck of the radiator cap and through the fan. That sinched up the deal pretty ok. No, the zip ties have not melted after racing. But, I can fry eggs on my hood now because the all metal radiator sure does radiate enough heat for me to nearly burn my hand on my hood after a good drive. I ordered aGates racing thermostat and a Mishimoto racing fan switch to complete the cooling fix. NowIjust need a vented hood.
Check the pics.
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/424AE2094E124820AEABE049BE2AB9EE.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/5E9CC2709DA849C1B561CCFD8A7A6901.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/AAF424629AA44467B2A50BB985CDB7DE.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/97E03E96BC094CAEB54FAC3975E400CA.jpg[/IMG]
First off, the part number for the OEM spec radiator from Koyo is 1494. While the racing all aluminum one is R1494. The radiator is beautifully polished and has a cool KoyoRad emblem painted on the front of it. Since it's 100% Aluminum it is also super light.
Now,the main problem with the install isthe fact that it's an OEM piece. Koyo replicated all the stock fan mounts for the Cooling fan (pass-side) and the AC condenser fan (driver-side). While they are nice direct fit mounts only the AC fan has a chance in Hell of fitting in the engine bay after the install. The Koyo part is quite simply massive compaired to the stock piece. The R1494 is 53mm while thestocky is maybe 25mm. Its the bottom left mount for the stock un-useable fan that kills it for you. It hits the front cross beam and doesn't alow the Rad to fall into the little seats for it's feets. Oh yeah and the unimportant Drain Plug hits the beam as well! Oh well, time to cut...again on my CD6. With about two inches of good steal lopped off the front cross beam the OEM Rad sits happily in place.
That Damn Fan. With a bit of slight and I mean slight conscious bending of the two metal AC lines that run between theAC fan and the header, you can use an OE AC condenser fan and have about1mm of clearance left.Yea! For theengine cooling fan, you will need an aftermarket Low Profile 12V11-inch fan that either pulls or can be set to pull.Not many sites that sell the R1494 tell you thisbecause they have never tried to get the damn thing in there themselves.I went with an 80 dollar reversable Maradyne11' racing fan that just so happend to come inred.The mountingsolution provided with the fanisdefinately non ideal. Youtake these straightZip ties and fish them through the fan's suppliedmounts. Then through your 300+ dollar radiator, bending fins all the way,untill you seat it with a backing plate on the out comingside. This sandwhiches the radiatorand holds the fan on nothing but thecore its self. I took anothertwo zip ties and loopedthem around the neck of the radiator cap and through the fan. That sinched up the deal pretty ok. No, the zip ties have not melted after racing. But, I can fry eggs on my hood now because the all metal radiator sure does radiate enough heat for me to nearly burn my hand on my hood after a good drive. I ordered aGates racing thermostat and a Mishimoto racing fan switch to complete the cooling fix. NowIjust need a vented hood.
Check the pics.
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/424AE2094E124820AEABE049BE2AB9EE.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/5E9CC2709DA849C1B561CCFD8A7A6901.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/AAF424629AA44467B2A50BB985CDB7DE.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/11915/97E03E96BC094CAEB54FAC3975E400CA.jpg[/IMG]
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