Please give some tips.
Honda Accord 98, LX, 4 cyl., auto.
Never happened problem with starting enine. But exists another problem for long time.
After easy starting engine about 1500 RPM on the board. Start driving with no problem.
The problem begins with cold engine during first 3-5 min. of driving. When shortly stop at ligth about 10 RPM (almost "0")
and engine almost stall but not. Sometimes stalled and easy start again. Wait for couple seconds
and RPM sadenly go up to 750 and stay fine. After that no problem during driving.
Thanks.

 

ignition

 

Try a cap and rotor first.

 

If I keep working engine for 5 min. before driving , problem disapear.
What is the problem?
Thanks.

 

I think 2Point's got it nailed ..... cap and rotor. Condensation can be making a cap and rotor problem worse by allowing more arcing and misfire. When you warm the car up, the cap can dry out a little.

 

You have to understand how spark and compression and the air fuel mixture all work together, now this is just theory but very possible. When cranking and cranking and cranking you are creating problems that may work in your favor. When cranking, you are constantly squirting lots of fuel into the cylinder, more than normal making the air fuel mixture rich. What burns easier, plain fuel or plain air, you cannot burn air, so a richer mixture is easier to ignite as long as its not too rich and it is NOT too rich yet (flooded). As this extra fuel is going into the cylinder and not yet igniting, it is also washing the oil from the cylinder walls, this is lowering the compression a little at a time, it is easier to spark in lower compression than it is in higher compression, higher compression and a leaner mixture (more air than fuel) create higher resistance to the spark (electricity), where does electricity tend to flow, to the path of least resistance, this is to the wet points inside the distributor cap since water conducts electricity, this leaking spark is also burning a little water away at the same time the resistance inside the cylinder is getting lower, when there seems to be less resistance in the cylinder than in the cap, boom, ignition in the cylinder, higher compression in the cylinder and some more misfiring in the cap and maybe the engine will die and start the process all over again immedietly or it may keep running depending on how much moisture is in the cap. Due to the possible flooding and the insticts of most people, you tend to give the gas pedal a nudge anyways so that is letting some air into the engine keeping it from flooding totally. Engine cranking tends to splash oil up onto the cylinder walls to keep from loosing all your compression, but not always (VG30).

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