there is only ONE rear mount.. it is liquid fille ( hydraulic) vacc operated , rubber mount.

and No you DO NOT have to pull the engine out .. lol not even close....Whoever told ssexy that did not know what they are talking about or just want to jack the price up ......I have found it easy to remove the left axle and do it from underneath
if you have all the proper tools should take you about 2-3 hrs at the most ,, a lot less if you have mechanical abilities

Yo ssexy if they said that they have to pull the engine out GET AWAY fron that shop ASAP..

 

Oh, now I get it... the parts diagram is showing the hydraulic filled mount for the A/T and the plain rubber for the 5 speed. Somehow I missed the application specifics.

I'm planning to check for vacuum on the mount side of the valve to make sure that the valve is functioning correctly. Then I'm thinking of using the vac testor/pump to manually control the mount to see if it has any effect. Is this a reasonable approach to debugging the rear mount? I assume that when I put vac to the mount, it should smooth the vibrations noticeably. If not the mount is bad??? All of this I can do pretty easily from above.

Should I see a visual indication of collapse on the rear mount? I suppose that I'll know a lot more after I crawl around underneath.

DesertHonda- is the axle just removed from the transmission end? Is this just to provide room to get at the mount? Can it be done without axle removal?

thanks for all the great help
Gary

 

i thought so...

happened to e to so dont trip, my old mechanic only checked the front one, didnt tell me anything about the rear, all it took was my mechanic homie to down shift from park to drive to tell me'hey i htink ur rear mount may b ****' we checked an hour later, sure enough, now im just in the market for one, good luck

 

I got the rear mount replaced... the car doesn't shake as much but it still shakes and i'm really tired of stupid mechanics... I don't know what to do!

 

Hi
Well I am going to bring this back to the front!
I just purchased my 92 Accord, and its smooth anywhere but idle. Give it some gas, any amount and it smooths right out.
Will try the tips outlined above, but wondering if there is anything else worth trying?
I suspected engine mounts right away, will have to check them and see if there is any problems.

 

I've got a 2003 Accord, with the same symptoms...

I doubt it'd really be the engine mounts, as it only has 60k miles on it, and has been babied as far as I can tell.

I'll do a visual check on those, but I haven't checked the plugs or used a injector cleaner.
So NGK are the plugs, but how about a cleaner.. any tips?

EDIT:: I checked autozone, they don't have NGK, any suggestions on that as well?

 

I also should mention when its in park it doesn't do it anywhere near as bad as when its in drive and you are stopped say at a stop sign using the brakes.
Its definitely much worse in these situations.
Not sure if this helps diagnose the cause.
Am changing the plugs and used the cleaner today.

 

purchase your ngk plugs online...autozone doesnt carry ngk

 

Just replaced my plugs, air filter (was gross!), cap and rotor and added injector cleaner a while ago.
things are definitely better, but its still there!! Found all needed replacing.
Will check the mounts when it goes in for front end work in a couple of weeks.
Whenever you get a new used car, it takes a while to get on top/find of everything.
When I changed the plugs found oil around the plugs, electrodes were clear, so will replace the cover gasket/kit as well.

 

Hey - have a 97 accord 2.2 vtec auto and am replacing the rear mount. Trying to access without removing the intake manifold by working from below and loosening the subframe bolts. But I still can't make enough room to get the mount out. Can anyone go over the procedure? Alldata and Chilton and Haynes don't help much.