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I was having problems with the engine dying while I'm driving and now it does it while I'm parked. We've replaced the main relay, fuel pump and fuel pump housing assembly and I'm not sure what else to do. CEL doesn't come on when this happens. After we replaced the parts above, we drove the car around the neighborhood and it drives fine but once I parked it, I revved the engine up to 4 on the rpm gauge and when I took my foot off the gas, the engine shook and "stuttered" or maybe hesitated is the better word then it died.
I've noticed before when this happens while I'm on the road, sometime the car would crank but wouldn't start.
I do have a new distributor cap and rotor coming in to be replaced too.
This is for others that read this post in the future, but installing new parts on a car without testing causes two problems. It wastes money and more importantly new parts out of the box (inexpensive aftermarket items and fake OEM parts) can not work out of the box and severely complicate diagnosis as you could have 2 different problems. Hopefully you kept the old parts in case you need to reinstall.
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In your case I would still check for codes. Maybe the PCM stored some fault codes that could give you a direction on what to test. Do you have a scanner that can read codes and/or live data?
The difficult part of intermittent issues is you need to test while the car is acting up to diagnose properly
Was any work done on the car right before the stalling issue, or something like a fresh tank of gas?
When the car stalls and does not restart, turn the key to the II position but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should prime around the same time for about 2 seconds. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound from the back seat, so turn off the blower, radio, etc and listen carefully.
Another test to try is to shake the key while the engine is running. See if the car car stumbles/or stalls while you are testing.
When jiggling the key, the car stays on so I ruled that out. what I ended up doing was taking off the throttle body and found that the backside of the plate was completely gunked up (pic below). Cleaned it up with CRC throttle body cleaner and replaced the air filter as well.
I also found there was a lot of buildup around the bottom portion of the distributor cap and took the cap off and found the gasket was broken so I replaced that as well.
After doing everything, the car runs so much smoother now. Took it for a 15-20 min drive, revved the engine up while parked (it even goes past 4 on the rpm gauge now without hesitation) and the car stayed on so I believe it was the throttle body that needed to be deep cleaned.