Well, there is NO continuity from switch blue/red to A26/15..

Shouldn't there be? Where is that RM1?

Thanks!

 

Relay module 1 is part of the engine bay fuse box. Be careful when reading the diagram for A26 or A15. CAN is a digital signal with a bunch of information, so you won't read voltage using your meter like normal wiring. Think of it like a wired internet connection.

You can try this method to get B-CAN and other codes. You don't need the special part to jump the connector, you can use alligator clips to short the connector in the link below. Troubleshooting newer vehicles is such a pain without having Honda's special scanner.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...2&d=1166668061

 

cool, thanks!

Its acting odd when I do this tho. After 5 sec it blinks one and a half times then the light goes out and stays out till I turn the key off.

The ignition key light (green key?) is constantly blinking no matter what, and the display on the dash said 61168 and a 50, and it blinked over 100 times before I stopped counting and turned it off..

I guess I'm going to try to get the Relay Control Module a test, if I can even get that to work, and see what happens.

Also, if that IS a code 2, then it says to test the RCM, so, might as well lol.



Ok, Test 2, I hit the AC button and the ceiling light blinked once, so the pressure switch and relay circuit are ok

I did get another #, 61169, then "end" when I hit the odometer button, so, thats something I guess..



Its looking like its the PCM isn't it?

 

The code is B1168 and 50, so you can search the web.

50 is a code for the gauge control module.
B1168 is that the gauge control module lost communication with the PCM.

If you hit the reset button on the gauge, does it provide other codes? It will say end after it shows all of the codes. Post any other codes on here.

Also, if you hold the reset button down for 10 seconds, you clear the codes. You can clear the codes, then retest to see if they return.

 

yeah, the B1168 and B1169 with both saying 50 on the other end.

The old radio unit is out, the previous owner said he fried it when putting in a hack wiring job for a POS sony one.

Could that be the problem?

Thanks!

Nevermind.. its for the gauge cluster (tach) and this guy says http://www.justanswer.com/honda/857k...-blinking.html that PCM is bad and needs replacing..

Everything still works. (at least I THNK) and it starts, so, I don't know if my problem is as bad as theirs was.. *knockwood*

 

I'd definitely take a look at the wiring behind the radio to see what is going on back there.

 

I went thru it previously and correctly soldered and wrapped the main wires there.

Is there a diagram I can see that says what all that harness does?

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the...Wiring_Diagram

So, its not that harness..

And the "B" codes may be from low batt from sitting a while before it charged back up while I was putting in the freon.

So, whats next, how can I be sure the PCM is out?

Thanks!

 

Well, previous owner first said they didn't work on the AC at all.. Was hoping he'd say they tried to jump the relay.

I'm really stuck. I guess we gotta spend on honda to diagnose it..

Unless you guys have something else to check?

Pressure switch system works, Clutch engages when PCM A27 grounded.. what else could be wrong?? Eh...

Thanks!

 

There is another diagnostic test you can try. The honda manual is not very clear, so maybe this can help. After you get to the point with where you get the B1068/69 codes, you remove the shorted connector and reinsert between 5-10 seconds.

This should get you into Test Mode 2. What happens is if a component is working properly, the ceiling light will flash once. If not working properly, it will not blink. You can try buckling/unbuckling your seatbelt to see if the ceiling light flashes once. If it does flash once, try the a/c switch and see if you get the ceiling light to flash once.

Honda made it difficult without their scanner.

 

I did that above. Thats how I know the Pressure switch circuit is working.

Thanks tho.. I'm about to take the PCM out and see if I can find anything obvious in it.. Doubt it, but never know..



No obvious damage inside. I didn't pry it off the case to look under the board tho.

Also got the codes clear, hopefully they wont return.

If anyone has another test, I'll try, but I'm going to switch it out with moms van and work on ITS A/C.. at least I can see its leak, and it was running fine before, so *knockwood


Thanks all!