Got an idea.. Its not too much to get an ebay PCM, so..

If I get one, will it work enough to see if the A/C Circuit is working BEFORE I get it programmed to the keys?

That would save a LOT and at least rule it out (and I could resell on ebay I guess if same results)

Whatcha think?
Thanks!

 

I'm not sure how the car will behave. You can get your key copied and get a metal key without the chip. See what functions your car has using a key without the proper chip. In your case you will be missing the chip. Pretty cheap test.

This thread is getting long and you may have mentioned this. When you start the engine from cold and turn on the a/c, do both radiator fans turn on?

Also, do some back-probing at the a/c pressure switch with it plugged in. Make sure the red meter lead is plugged into the meter for voltage and not amps. I use a valve cover bolt or the - battery post as my ground to connect my black lead when electrical testing. The blu/red and the wht/grn wire should have 12V to ground. The blu and blk wire should have ~zero ohms to ground.

 

Start from cold and AC makes both fans spin. Fuses fine. Relays swapped..

MeterS are correct. I know that.

Test 2 said the AC/Pressure circuit works. I've put the cowl back on, but if you really think I should.. (Switch is closed 1-4 open 2-3)

 

I'm just not sure what Test 2 is actually looking at.

You verified the switch is working properly. I'm thinking more along the wiring. The test I suggested above can tell if the PCM and the relay control module is providing power to the switch. It could also tell if the HVAC control panel is getting the 12V signal from the pressure switch.

As for the PCM, it is possible that this is a PCM problem and not a bad idea to try. I always like to rule out as much as possible when diagnosing a problem.

 

Of course, I don't like throwing money at it, but it seems like its all thats left.

Switch gets 11v at both sides with opposite sides getting 20ohms on the black wire and 40something ohms on the blu.

So, now what? I did find a "brake bypass" for lost keys for PCM operation to get it to the dealer.. I guess I can do that with the new PCM to test for operation. If that works then I just take the PCM to the dealer, or put old one back in till I get it there (or a tuner I heard can do this too?)

Any other tests you can think of first tho?

Thanks so much for your help. I'm a mid 90's owner, so I don't know much about these years.

 

I learned a lot about Accords from my 95 Accord. The problem Accords after 03 or even 98 is you need the Honda scanner to access some of the information to make life easier.

I think the PCM is probably your best plan going forward. The gauge control module or the relay control module are still possibilities and I'm not sure how to rule them out.

 

that code didn't come back yet.. so hopefully, like others found (after I did more research) that it was low battery causing a false reading.

Ok, I'll throw $50 at it, and see what happens.. Worst comes to it, I can sell again I guess.

Thanks! Will update next week!

 

Ok, got a PCM, and sent dad with the title to the Dealer (he's over an hr away, so easiest) to get the brake code FOR THE PCM.. well, it doesn't work, so he prob got it for the CAR instead!

He's gonna ask seller for VIN, but we have little hope..

Anyone ever changed a PCM? What code should be used? For PCM or for CAR, or WHAT?

We also got some weird unlock codes, like IMOBI PCM and RELEASE P/W, are those user accessible??

Thanks!

 

The VIN should be stamped on the metal plate and you can see it on the driver's side of the windshield at the bottom.

 

Yes, we have the CAR VIN and gave that to the Honda dealer..(along with the NEW PCM's Serial #...

He gave back (most likely) the CAR's Brake code.. but not the PCM ONE..

If not, and I have the PCM's brake code, and its not working, then what else can I do??