I have a 2002 Accord with 32,000 miles, yes only 32,000 miles. The P1166 and P1167 codes came up. So it's the denso Air/fuel mixture sensor at the front of the exhaust manifold with the green wire covering. I checked the voltage at the plug and it is getting power. The two black wires are the ones that go to the pre-heater and the other two wires are probes "information" wires. Anyway, I tested the probes wires and the voltage is varying back and forth like a proper working probe would. The resistance on the heater wires is 0, nothing. So I figure the heater part is not working but the probe or part of the sensor that reads the fuel mixture is working. So I thought I would just take the two heater wires and wire in a resistor and therefore give the computer what it wants to see, 10-40 ohmes resistance. I was wondering if anyone had a comment on the wattage of resistor I should be getting? 1/4 to 1 watt or More?
du907
PS I live in the south so the warm up time for the sensor doesn't seem to be all that important.

 

bad idea...

 

I have to agree. There is a real danger here. Simulating the heater circuit is different than trying to condition the signal lines.

I have no expert knowledge regarding trying to simulate the O2 heater circuit; but, the wattage for the resistor would have to be way higher than the guess of 1/4 to 1 watt; and then you're talking about a lot of heat, so the resistor would have to be mounted somewhere to allow air flow for heat dissipation.

There is the alternative of wiring pairs of resistors in parallel...

There are calculators out there; but, one would have to consider that car voltage with ignition switched to ACC (accessories) is 12+ volts and when alternator running can go 14+ volts.

Not even talking about the legal aspects of modifying emission control sensors, etc.; but, this is not a trivial modification if you're not aware of some of the technicalities.

 

here's a novel idea, how bout getting it diagnosed correctly and replacing what is needed? ...call me silly

 

Could be as simple as a blown fuse.

Again, if this is the A/F sensor and not the reg O2, I know it costs more but in the end if it is bad, I'd just buy a new one and call it a day.

We can help with the testing pieces, just let us know.