NO is too high on 25mph test. I have replaced/refurbed the fallowing:

Head(all new except the valves)
Distributer
Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, & coil
Refurbed the carb
New o2 sensor
New fuel filters & pump filter
New egr valve & related vacume lines
Cat & computer have been replaced some time before i got the car, idk when.

By doing these things and fine tuning the best i can being kinda new to all this, i have lowered the NO by about 4000 points but still need to pull 301 points out of my sleave to make the max and pass. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. I refuse to be deffeted on this project lol

 

Have you checked the timing with a light? You have replaced the dist and head so it should be checked.

 

I have set the timing every step of the way. Its not perfect but close. It jumps between 22 and 24 btdc. I even adjusted the refurbed distributer.

 

Well something is going on - it should be closer to 15 btdc?

Been a while and don't have my manual handy - different computer than normal. Pretty sure that one of the vac lines to the vac advance on the dist has to come off and be plugged. Then check the timing.

The mark on the flywheel can be hard to see when the car is as old as this. Last time I checked the timing on the 89 LXi - I had to set the car to TDC looking thru the "slit" and then use a marker (sharpie, nail polish, something) to mark the "T" mark before I could see it. Again I marked the "T" since my light is adjustable and can use the light to "dial" in the timing. Also be sure you get the lead/pick up to #1 wire fully clear of the other wires - at first I was have a b@%&h of a time getting a good reading, then realized that the #2 wire was leaning on the pickup. Once I got the pickup on #1 clear of the other wire I was able to get a good reading and was able to set it properly.

Advanced timing can give you a lean condition - high NO

 

I have a dx. In my manuals it said the car is to be timed to be between 22 and 26 btdc with the advance on and tdc with the advance off and pluged. Witch it does withing 2 degrees. I have also researched to confirm. The smog guy also let me read his manuals as they have more info. According to state standards, the car will fail the test if the timing is not set between 22 and 26 btdc. So i either have to figure out a way to keep the motor cooler while its running or idk lol

 

To get a mark of 22 to 26 (you'd have a carb'd -dx confirms that - engine AND be a manual trans) BUT #2 vac hose whould HAVE to be connected to get this reading.

Pull both vac line from the dist advance, plug them both. Do you get ~4 btc?

I don't want to sound like an "A" hole but I would be willing to bet I've spent more time "playing" with a 3rd gen Accord (carb or FI) than you or the smog tech put together.

 

I did leave out that the engine should be at normal OP temp when doing this.


And I have to assume the all of the PVS are in proper order and that...no strange "high idle" when re-starting a warm engine or anything else.

 

You dont sound like a a hole lol. Thats why im on here, this is my first honda. And yes, with the vac lines off and pluged, i get somewhere around 4btdc. Tdc is just in site. Never and rough idle or anything at any time. This motor runs excelent considering its age. And yes, carb ohc i4 w/5 speed manual. Im just out of ideas, i have gone through all the vacume lines looking for leaks or vacume where there should not be or lac of vacume when there should be. Figured the egr was bad that way. Replaced some lines. Then hit the motor and electrical.

 

What spark plugs were used?

What happens if you pull 2~3 degrees from the timing? Again be sure the "pick up" on #1 wire is clear of the #2 wire or any of the others. The light will give jumping/false readigs if the pick up is near the other wires.

If that doesn't help. I hate adjusting on a carb blindly but if you have done thru it already, could it need a bit more fuel in the mixture?