1987 Accord DX carb/running help
#1
1987 Accord DX carb/running help
Hello all!
I picked up a 1987 Accord for an extra car to use for commuting.
It's a DX and very base model (Crank windows, manual locks, no passenger side mirror)
It has a few minor issues that are annoying.
NEW PARTS: Carb, fuel pump, fuel filter, lines, belts, full tune up, air filter
First: When you start the car, at any point (hot or cold), the belt area has a loud squeal. It goes away after roughly 15-30 seconds. I can't tell where its coming from.
Second: The car has a carburetor. The choke lever won't stay out when you pull on it, and the car will stall out until it has run for a few minutes.
After that, its fantastic little car. The interior is IMMACULATE, and the body is actually pretty good for being a 1987 Honda in the midwest. There's some minor rust corrosion on the rear wells, but a grind out and minor fiberglass would make the car totally rust free.
The previous owner said when the shop put the new fuel pump in, they had to run a wire to the fuse box (not a big deal, I have done that before), but since then the battery light came on.
Any thoughts?
We live in Indiana, so no emission testing. I could remove some vacuum lines and cap things if it could assist in simplicity of under the hood design, and running if need be.
I picked up a 1987 Accord for an extra car to use for commuting.
It's a DX and very base model (Crank windows, manual locks, no passenger side mirror)
It has a few minor issues that are annoying.
NEW PARTS: Carb, fuel pump, fuel filter, lines, belts, full tune up, air filter
First: When you start the car, at any point (hot or cold), the belt area has a loud squeal. It goes away after roughly 15-30 seconds. I can't tell where its coming from.
Second: The car has a carburetor. The choke lever won't stay out when you pull on it, and the car will stall out until it has run for a few minutes.
After that, its fantastic little car. The interior is IMMACULATE, and the body is actually pretty good for being a 1987 Honda in the midwest. There's some minor rust corrosion on the rear wells, but a grind out and minor fiberglass would make the car totally rust free.
The previous owner said when the shop put the new fuel pump in, they had to run a wire to the fuse box (not a big deal, I have done that before), but since then the battery light came on.
Any thoughts?
We live in Indiana, so no emission testing. I could remove some vacuum lines and cap things if it could assist in simplicity of under the hood design, and running if need be.
#2
I had a DX once, 86 5 speed....loved that car.
The noise sounds like a loose belt
You description of the choke has me confused....when cold it should be "closed" at the top....then as it warms up it should open. Look at the check stat (pss side of carb-single wire to it). Are there rivits or screws holding it on - should be three.
No sure what they "taped" into to run the wire to the pump? If the battery light is on, check the voltage being produced, volt meter to the battery while running. Should be ~14v.....now this does lead me back to the first question....believe it or not, on this gen Accord a bad choke stat can cause the battery light to come on Don't go there yet.....testing is needed.
The noise sounds like a loose belt
You description of the choke has me confused....when cold it should be "closed" at the top....then as it warms up it should open. Look at the check stat (pss side of carb-single wire to it). Are there rivits or screws holding it on - should be three.
No sure what they "taped" into to run the wire to the pump? If the battery light is on, check the voltage being produced, volt meter to the battery while running. Should be ~14v.....now this does lead me back to the first question....believe it or not, on this gen Accord a bad choke stat can cause the battery light to come on Don't go there yet.....testing is needed.
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