1991 accord changed trans now turns over but wont start
ok so i found the codes but damn what the hell is making so much go wrong. as far as i know the electronics were fine i switched them over from the other trans, what do i do and can this cause a no start issue w the 14 1 2 7 8 tcm codes what is the craping deal
im using one of the rear shock nuts as a ground, im getting 12 v on the one line so by the transitive property i should be able to get 12 v if it was there on the one im getting 6 v on
and i couldn't find the test for the main harness but i did test it in some manner and listed the results still need help
and i couldn't find the test for the main harness but i did test it in some manner and listed the results still need help
Your description of the test for the main relay harness is confusing.
Here is how the 94 manual numbers the pins:
1 2 X 3
4 5 6 7
Here are the important ones for voltage or ground:
#5 should have 12V when the key is in the II position
#7 should always have 12V
#2 should have 12V when you turn the key to start the car
#3 should be closed circuit to ground (also you should read same voltage should be read between #7 and ground compared to the voltage between #7 and #3)
#1, 4, and 6 should not have voltage.
Can you tell me what you read on 5, 7, 2, and 3?
Here is how the 94 manual numbers the pins:
1 2 X 3
4 5 6 7
Here are the important ones for voltage or ground:
#5 should have 12V when the key is in the II position
#7 should always have 12V
#2 should have 12V when you turn the key to start the car
#3 should be closed circuit to ground (also you should read same voltage should be read between #7 and ground compared to the voltage between #7 and #3)
#1, 4, and 6 should not have voltage.
Can you tell me what you read on 5, 7, 2, and 3?
yea im sorry i was tired when i wrote that, im going to be back in half hr and going to start testing things for as coule hrs, i think my results were like what u described bur not sure, i think i only got 2 12 v sources when i tested yesterday
havent checked yet but from what i wrote and what u wrote it looks like im getting. 22 v on one leg that i should get 12 v on the end that has 2 12 v side by side i guess 6 7, 7 only has the .22 v where does this voltage come from
Double check those values and post the voltage for each one.
#7 is powered from the battery. It is protected by the 15 amp ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Check that fuse.
#5 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the II position.
#3 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the start position.
#7 is powered from the battery. It is protected by the 15 amp ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Check that fuse.
#5 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the II position.
#3 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the start position.
ok man can you post the fuse box outlay w amps for each fuse bc with the key on i get 12v at 4 and 6 but not 7, no voltage on 3 and poorman i was testing the fuel ump when i was using the rear shock mount bolt, we were determining that the yel wire to the pump had half the required voltage and that there was only one 12 v source in the back and that was the green red wire
this #7 that has no voltage is also a yellow wire but is thicker guage, and i know it comes from the ower source somewhere, im guessing that 15 ampfuse we talking about
this #7 that has no voltage is also a yellow wire but is thicker guage, and i know it comes from the ower source somewhere, im guessing that 15 ampfuse we talking about


