Hi my accord 2dr LX has ac that doesn't work. I recharged it last year without vacuuming it down. It worked but it only blew about 50F. And it also leaked out in 3 days. So this year I plan on replacing all of the o-rings and compressor oil, and reciever drier. I also can get ahold of a vacuum pumps and gauges for free. Heres my questions: Can bad o-rings cause it to not work in 3 days? How much oil should I add after I drain the oil out of the compressor? And what should the pressure be when I add refrigerant?

 

Welcome to HAF.....been following several of your posts on HT.

To answer some of your questions. Yes, bad o-rings can cause leaks....hope it is not the shaft seal.

In the manaul, see the common diy threads sticky at the top for one you can download, read the part about how much to add for just the dryer.

In the same manual there is a chart for reading pressures...there are factors that need to be accounted for.....I think you are in CA, I do have a bad memory.

 

Hi thanks for your reply. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to flush the whole ac system and then add new oil to everything? As for the leak i'm thinking that it is the o-rings on the top of the compressor, but I could be wrong, I just know that the compressor is full of oil. I have a target gift card so could I buy Freon and ac flush from them?

I live in NH so if it is a major component that is bad I can live with out it but I'm willing to try o-rings and a new drier and see if it works. I should be able to check for a leak with the vacuum pump, correct?

If I do use a flush solvent any special brand or kind? Thanks for a response.

 

I was using thisEXT : Gummiegorillas Do it Nice or Do it Twice A/C Retrofit !! - CB7Tuner Forums

 

Ok, I could be wrong about the location but there is a "curtie94" on HT.....was just wondering if you are the same?

What I would do, TX will shoot me. Get a re-charge kit with UV dye, or a can with dye in it since you can get to the proper tools (are you going to class for automotive stuff...I think so) and add it to the system, then use the UV light to find where the leak is.

AC System O-Rings - Honda-Tech

EDIT: I now see your other post.......is your car factory R-12? I can't remember the split......

 

Ya im going for automotive at my local college starting next year. Doesn't the dye only travel in the system when its running with refrigerant? Yes it is factory r12 but I added r134a fitting last year. I bought a uv light bulb so I could look for the dye I added last year, but I couldn't see any because I waited too long.

 

Hi I tried to go around and loosen the lines but I can't get the nut to spin on the low side line right near the port. I've tried wd-40 but it won't go. The line wants to spin so I don't want to try to hard. Could I use a propane torch? I found that I can buy a set of 270 orings for 8 bucks or 24 for 3 bucks. Also pag 46 for $4 and I ordered a drier for 15 dollars.

Does anyone have ideas for loosening the nuts?

 

I ended up getting it to free up. I tapped it with a hammer and it let go right away. The o-rings was still good it wasn't cracked or anything, so I'll replace that one but I don't think I'll even try to remove the ones by the evaporator because they don't get any heat at all. I'll replace the ones on the condenser and the compressor because those are leaking I can see it. The lines on the accumulator are already loose, they came right off.

Here's one thing I noticed. The R134a adapters on the old r12 fittings came off by hand! I thought they had some locktite on them but they came right off could that be part of my leak? Should I buy some good fittings and add locktite on those? Should I also remove the old valve stem in the r12 fitting?

 

I called my local ac shop about flushing the system for me, and he told me to buy a can of the ac flush at napa its a aerosol can that you hook up to the r134a port. So I ordered one for 17 bucks. How does that even work do you have to open line somewhere so it comes out with the oil? Will it remove all oil, even the compressor,or should I remove that and dump it by hand? Also what is the best way to add oil. I bought a 8 oz bottle of pag 46 and I plan on using that. But do you actually have to add it to every component, or does just have to be close? Please help!