I say those are decent pressures and should have produced some cooling. You didn't say if the car was cooling or not?

Pressure on low/high side should begin to equalize when compressor goes off, and after 20-30 secs, the temp sensor on evaporator should enable the compressor to run again. If compressor is staying off for a long period, then something is not right. Compressor may stay engaged for a long period due to heat load.

If car was not cooling, check the heater core flow control valve (on firewall behind distributor). W/ heater control in full cold position, it should be fully closed. Check hoses one should be warm and other cool (no flow). If both are warm/hot the flow control valve is not closing. Either a problem w/ the valve, control wire, or temp control **** (broken and not turning the stem).

good luck

 

Thanks! The car was cooling - just wondering if it was doing so optimally. Since I've seen charts indicating it should have more pressure on the low side when the outside air temp is so warm, I was thinking it indicated a leak. But if you think that's not a problem and since it is cooling, I guess there's nothing more that needs to be done at this point.

 

Running at high idle in shade, doors/windows closed, max fan, recirculate. You should see temps in 40-45F range w/i 5-10 mins. Measure temperature on floorboard on pax side and temp exiting center vents. Look for 35-45F lowering of temp, depending on humidity.

good luck

 

Weather outside: 82 degrees - Dew Point: 60 degrees
Temp at center vent: Took a while but eventually achieved 40 degrees
Temp at floor by my feet: 77 degrees

Seems kinda high by my feet does it?

 

Those are OK for your condition.

I've learned to accept "good enough" and avoid excessive tweaking and chasing last 2-3 degs of cooling. Wait for some hot weather and see if cooling is acceptable.

good luck