1993 Accord Brake Drums and Rotors How?
#1
1993 Accord Brake Drums and Rotors How?
I need to change the brakes all the way around and was wondering if there was a video on how to remove the rotors and drums someplace?
The Drums really seemed on there should I whack them with a sledge?
And the rotors.. How do you get them off? Any videos on how to?
I know how to change the shoes and pads..
Thanks,
Bob
The Drums really seemed on there should I whack them with a sledge?
And the rotors.. How do you get them off? Any videos on how to?
I know how to change the shoes and pads..
Thanks,
Bob
#2
Ericthecarguy and others have videos on "trapped rotors" on Hondas. A little searching on youtube will yield plenty of good videos. ETCG's was very good but don't remember exact title. Go to his website and search.
You will want to replace pin boots, caliper piston boots, and other soft goods on these brakes. Clean and grease caliper pins.
good luck
You will want to replace pin boots, caliper piston boots, and other soft goods on these brakes. Clean and grease caliper pins.
good luck
#3
Got the drums done last might and MY GOD that was a pain in the rear.
I have done several GM drum brake jobs and figured how bad could it be..
The spring over the adjuster was a monster and getting the brakes together again required I use my Swiss Vise to hold the shoe in place.
I tried to get a rotor off myself and no luck. I cant wait to watch the video. OMG who would have thought it
would be so tuff.
I have done several GM drum brake jobs and figured how bad could it be..
The spring over the adjuster was a monster and getting the brakes together again required I use my Swiss Vise to hold the shoe in place.
I tried to get a rotor off myself and no luck. I cant wait to watch the video. OMG who would have thought it
would be so tuff.
Last edited by ChicagoBob123; 11-30-2011 at 12:08 PM.
#4
I tried to remove the big 36mm front hub/axle bolt to get the rotors off and could not get it loose. I think I need a torch to heat it up but was not sure if that would effect anything else. I had about 250 to 300lbs of pressure on that thing and did not see it give. MAN! Thats stuck.
#5
The rear shoes are rather easy, IMO.
1) Lower spring-off
2) Hold down pins-off
3) Use the upper part of the shoes, still on the cyl, to compress the cyl-since the lower part is undone this is easy.
4) As you "kind of pull apart" the upper part of the shoes, slide them out
5) remove the parking brake cable
You are now holding the shoes in you hands with the upper spring and adjuster still in place...priceless......EDIT: of course, put the shoes on the ground and remove the adjuster, spring, PB lever, ect..... install all this on the new shoes while off the car.
Reverse for install
Next time I have to change the shoes on one of mine I was going to take pic's and try to do a proper write up, then pass it around the other mod's and another friend (redbull-1) and see if we should post it up...
1) Lower spring-off
2) Hold down pins-off
3) Use the upper part of the shoes, still on the cyl, to compress the cyl-since the lower part is undone this is easy.
4) As you "kind of pull apart" the upper part of the shoes, slide them out
5) remove the parking brake cable
You are now holding the shoes in you hands with the upper spring and adjuster still in place...priceless......EDIT: of course, put the shoes on the ground and remove the adjuster, spring, PB lever, ect..... install all this on the new shoes while off the car.
Reverse for install
Next time I have to change the shoes on one of mine I was going to take pic's and try to do a proper write up, then pass it around the other mod's and another friend (redbull-1) and see if we should post it up...
Last edited by poorman212; 11-30-2011 at 05:29 PM.
#6
I tried to remove the big 36mm front hub/axle bolt to get the rotors off and could not get it loose. I think I need a torch to heat it up but was not sure if that would effect anything else. I had about 250 to 300lbs of pressure on that thing and did not see it give. MAN! Thats stuck.
good luck
#7
I tried to remove the big 36mm front hub/axle bolt to get the rotors off and could not get it loose. I think I need a torch to heat it up but was not sure if that would effect anything else. I had about 250 to 300lbs of pressure on that thing and did not see it give. MAN! Thats stuck.
#8
Got through the rear brakes which I have to believe I am doing wrong. Strecthing that spring and keeping the shoes in place was insane.
I then found a video by eric the car guy for a 1990 honda and catpured rotors, which I guess I have, and freaked.
Break the wheel free from the tie rod ends, ball joints, to change the rotor?
After the shock was over I decided to ruin a pair of pads and wait till I enough $ for a pair of front wheel bearings (another $100) and another weeked to dedicate to the car. I figured with about 202K the bearings have to be worn. And I am pretty upbeat because for about $700 ( I think thats going to be the total) I will have replaced seals, timing belt, water pump, rear brake shoes, front brake wheel bearings, front rotors, muffler and connecting pipe to resonator pipe.. In short quite a huge amount of the basics all while driving it 400 plus miles a week and for less than Honda wanted to change just the timing belt.
DIY pays off big time.
I then found a video by eric the car guy for a 1990 honda and catpured rotors, which I guess I have, and freaked.
Break the wheel free from the tie rod ends, ball joints, to change the rotor?
After the shock was over I decided to ruin a pair of pads and wait till I enough $ for a pair of front wheel bearings (another $100) and another weeked to dedicate to the car. I figured with about 202K the bearings have to be worn. And I am pretty upbeat because for about $700 ( I think thats going to be the total) I will have replaced seals, timing belt, water pump, rear brake shoes, front brake wheel bearings, front rotors, muffler and connecting pipe to resonator pipe.. In short quite a huge amount of the basics all while driving it 400 plus miles a week and for less than Honda wanted to change just the timing belt.
DIY pays off big time.
Last edited by ChicagoBob123; 12-05-2011 at 01:47 PM.
#9
[quote=poorman212;262417]The rear shoes are rather easy, IMO.
1) Lower spring-off
2) Hold down pins-off
3) Use the upper part of the shoes, still on the cyl, to compress the cyl-since the lower part is undone this is easy.
4) As you "kind of pull apart" the upper part of the shoes, slide them out
I could not get this to happen. I could not pull the brakes apart.
Tried it. Had to yank hard on that spring to pull it loose from the shoes.
Putting it on was much much harder than it should be.
1) Lower spring-off
2) Hold down pins-off
3) Use the upper part of the shoes, still on the cyl, to compress the cyl-since the lower part is undone this is easy.
4) As you "kind of pull apart" the upper part of the shoes, slide them out
I could not get this to happen. I could not pull the brakes apart.
Tried it. Had to yank hard on that spring to pull it loose from the shoes.
Putting it on was much much harder than it should be.
#10
If you can still find one to buy or rent, try one of these. Take a look at the following pdf for a description on its use:
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...DE8mOA&cad=rja
I own one of these tools. Over four years ago I wrote about my experience using it. (BTW, those same wheel bearings and rotors are still operating just fine. I would not hesitate to use it again.)
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lacement-9500/
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...DE8mOA&cad=rja
I own one of these tools. Over four years ago I wrote about my experience using it. (BTW, those same wheel bearings and rotors are still operating just fine. I would not hesitate to use it again.)
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lacement-9500/