Yep, even when I was a teen, I use to ask mechanics if I could watch in the shop. There were even those that had me do a few procedures, so I could learn. I became friends with many mechanics that way, as we would have conservations regarding other things too. Almost everyone of them gave me discounts. Since I became buddies with many of them, if they smoked, I would buy them a pack of cigarettes the next time I see them. I would see what brand they smoked when they took a break and was talking to me.

 

Yeah, agreed .. The guys who wrench on my cars for me, they know I am a poor boy and everything .. So they really appreciate it when I bring them a pack of their brand or some beer just out of the blue when I don't need anything

Appreciating something goes a long way because so few people do these days, you know? I have two/three rules .. Pay only after the work is done, and no more than was agreed on unless there is an exceedingly good reason. Pay without being asked as soon as the work is done.

Of course I try to convert everyone to the e-cig any way ... but that is another story

 

If your funds are low and your rotors are in decent shape, you might want to call your local honda dealership (or a shop the specializes in hondas) to find out what it would cost to machine the rotors with a lathe that they can put on the car.

There are a few routes that you can take to do the rotor over the hub conversion.

As for your question about running bolts through the bearing casing, you don't really want to separate the hub from the bearing, because you risk damaging the bearing. You want to remove the hub/bearing together, that is why he hits on the threaded part of the bearing.

 

around my area NO1 turns rotors anymore. It just as expensive to turn a set of rotor as it is to buy a set. Might not be like that everywhere but in the Tallahassee area NO will turn rotors anymore.

 

The place I went to for having it looked at wanted $210 to turn them on the car.. I know Midas is higher than hell alot of the time, but $105/hr basic labor rate is pretty bad. Paying $200 specifically to use a $10k piece of equipment, I guess I see that, but $105 just for any labor they do is excessive

I got some Rotors at autozone for $25 each .. I didn't know what was better, brakebest or valucraft ..... One is $2 more .. But now I find out O'reilleys turns rotors here for $12 .. So I can save some money and keep the OEM rotors which to me is better

I think I understand about not seperating the bearing because I remember in the video the guy said if you do it'll probably **** up ..... good to know, for sure .. I still ain't 100% clear on how to be sure the hub nut goes back on

We have to punch some tabs in to make sure it doesn't come off? Do we need to be careful not to over tighten the hub nut? Is there a proper torque spec for it? (We're using air)

Thanks guys .... this forum it is great

 

It is more of a "collar" that needs to be bent in. There will (should) be a groove in the outer cv joint where the threads are. You bend the outer most part of the nut into that groove......should be able to see it once you have the wheel off.....kind of hard to see in this pic

EDIT: Found a better pic.

 

The axle nuts are 184 ft lbs in the shop manual for your body style I replaced my rotors a couple weeks ago on a 96 accord so I remember. Ive used a breaker bar and basically stood on it I weigh about 175 so I figure Im close, but you should be able to reuse the old nut and it should line up with the old dent that was on it for holding it on.

 

That was the worst brake job in the history of mankind
I am glad that it is over

I hope that )&$#)*%& is all back together right .. We torqued the 4 bolts on the back to 40lbs ... we didn't have a spec for the axle bolts but we torqued it down pretty good and then a little more with the breaker bar.. The indentation didn't line up but we punched it


All I can say is thank #*)%&# for air and #(&#$($& whoever invented cold weather


Surely the whole thing won't all fly off of there

We put anti seize on it where it wouldn't seperate (for next time) and on the spindles ..... sure hope that was a good idea .. also the same guy (not this guy) did brake pads on this and my other car and they both have warped rotors now .. this guy tells me he probably tightened them down wrong?? The lug nuts?


Thanks for being helpful on here
If you ever have to do rotors on one of these, just take a bottle of sleeping pills instead Not seriously.. just almost

A few quick questions:
Is 40lbs alright for the 4 bolts that go in through the back?
Is the way we tightened the hub nut okay? I thought I read somewhere that it is not "for tightening but something else" or some kind of thing ... Is there anything I need to recheck or anything? I just want to be sure it is safe for her ... thanks again everyone

 

The axel nut is like 180 ft lbs, was in the pic I posted. for the others see this pic......40 vs 33 call if good.

 

Thanks! The book we had described either piece for both specs, if that makes sense . . They both ended up at 40