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1994 Accord DX F22B2 KH Model - Intermittent no start condition

  #1  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:12 AM
JoeAsheville
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Default 1994 Accord DX F22B2 KH Model - Intermittent no start condition

You may recognize this car from the other threads. This time, the key is inserted into the ignition, turned to "II", then to "III" to start...the solenoid very audibly snaps the bendix against the ring gear, but the starter does not turn. It may take several tries to get the starter to turn the engine over. I have not measured the voltage at rest and under load on the battery, nor have I done any diagnostic tests on this trouble since I have been wrapped up in a power window issue (now fixed), then a radiator fan issue (still in trouble), now an A/C clutch issue (new trouble), and fast erratic blinkers (haven't had time to devote to that one yet). The headlights burn brightly on low and high beam with KOEO, all dash lights are bright at KOEO. It seems identical with KOER also, which makes me think the battery has enough voltage.

The battery is a very cheap 400CCA unit, and the cable ends are tightened down all the way and still are movable on the terminals. I know I have to have a tight electrical connection, but the car really does need a bigger battery. Does this sound like a series of issues, or just get a new battery and replace and then resume troubleshooting?

This car was obviously worked on by someone who only knew which end of the wrench was the one to hold onto to turn it...I'm beginning to think that the extent of their toolbox was a hammer, a phillips and flathead screwdriver, and a crescent wrench.

If you have any ideas, post up...even if it's just to refer me to the diagnostic procedure for the starting system and to do it when I have time...
 
  #2  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:58 AM
TexasHonda's Avatar
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Default RE: 1994 Accord DX F22B2 KH Model - Intermittent no start condition

This symptom "solenoid throws, but no starter turn-over" usually means the copper contacts in the solenoid are worn out. Sometimes you can tap the solenoid w/ a hammer and get the contact to temporarily work, and confirm the contacts as the problem.

Two fixes, replace the starter or replace the solenoid contacts. I'm not aware the solenoid is available as a part. Some solenoids are sealed and not repairable, so only fix is a new or rebuilt starter. Check http://sherco-auto.com/contacts.htmfor contacts and nice pics of repair procedure.

Site w/ more options and pics available: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 08-26-2007, 01:37 PM
deserthonda's Avatar
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Default RE: 1994 Accord DX F22B2 KH Model - Intermittent no start condition

i agree with Tex , it sounds like a sterter issue,,

get a jumper wire,,disconnect solenoid wire, apply direct power from battery to solenoid at starter ,,if starter still does not turn it is internal starter issue .
or get a test lite, set 1 side top ground 1 to the solenoid wire, have someone try to start the car if you got power ,, internal starter issue ,,,,better yet get a voltmeter instead of test lite ,, should have around 12 v at solenoid wire ,

 
  #4  
Old 08-26-2007, 02:14 PM
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Default RE: 1994 Accord DX F22B2 KH Model - Intermittent no start condition

You have several threads about strange electrical problems with your accord and you mentioned that you got hit on the front pass. side of the car. These all sound like you have a ground problem.

Check that your battery cables didn't get damaged. Use your volt meter to check that the battery voltage between the + and - posts is the same as the + post and the ground bolt (the one holding - battery cable bolted into the radiator support right by the radiator overflow tank). If they are different, clean the connections and retest.

If you still can turn the terminal connections, then this can cause some strange problems. When I replaced my battery, I used my 10 mm boxed end wrench and tightened down as much as I could, but I could pull the battery connections off by hand. I used a 10mm socket on connector and got several more turns compared to boxed-end wrench and the connections were tight.
 
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