I have a 1994 Honda accord auto trans 125k miles that has developed a phantom electrical problem as I call it. It has an intermittent problem while driving she will just die and sometimes will start right back up and sometimes will crank no start multiple times before starting up again. Once in a while when she does start up she hesitates upon acceleration like she isn't getting enough fuel and will die again then will crank no start and set a check engine light but before the car can be towed to a shop to pull a code she starts up beautifully runs and no codes are stored. Before the engine shuts off while she is running I can hear a clicking noise like a relay clicking on and off before the engine dies at time I have also heard what sounds like an electrical wire shorting out under the dash board as well. Have taken it into the shop multiple times and they have kept it for weeks on end and driven it over and over again and they cannot duplicate the problem. I'm a former service advisor for Honda so I know how to document symptoms but this one there is no consistent scenario to be able to pinpoint a way to duplicate the concern. I'm leaning towards a loose ground somewhere or a soft set electrical pin that loses contact while driving then after it dies and stops connecting just enough to start again but where??? Please help

 

Could it be a wheel sensor that needs replacing? My ABS light came on and my mechanic scanned it and narrowed it down to a broken wheel sensor . He replaced it.
My 98 Honda Accord (with manual transmission) had been rumbling somewhat and before I took the car in I had felt a big chuddering pull when I starting moving. Replacing the sensor cost $150 plus tax.
Was the cost reasonable, do you think?

 

When the car stalls out, does the check engine light just turn on for about 2 seconds, then turn off?

The only way to be sure of the problem is to troubleshoot with the car acts up. Get in the habit of turning the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, you should hear the fuel pump also turn on for about two seconds when the CEL is on. When the car stalls, listen for that fuel pump after turning the key to the II position. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sounds from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc and listen carefully.

When the engine is running, try shaking the key to see if you can get the engine to stall out.