The springs are pretty strong. If I remember correctly from the Haynes or Chilton manual, you just use a flat head screwdriver to hold the two brushes and then start inserting the brush assembly into the alternator.

 

Having done this on other alternators (not Honda) you can usually find a small screwdriver or something that works. Using a thin-wall tube sounds like a really cool idea. The screwdriver was more awkward, but it certainly worked.

 

Could you scan those instructions from the manual if you have them? My manuals are the same as those you listed but nothing about these procedures.
I wonder if the screwdrivers would fit in?

Thanks.

 

I want to start rebuilding my starter too since it's about that time but no problem yet.
Thanks.

 

The toothpick thickness would work but it is not strong enough to push back those brushes. You need something metallic or strong plastic. Just get the new brush assembly (it's only about $30 or so) and experiment with some brush retracting method that works before you remove the back cover of the alternator. You might come up with some improvisation nobody else tried yet. I wonder what Honda mechanics use. They probably have some special tool for that. On the other hand, they might not even bother with brush replacement because there is no money in it for the shop. They would make you pay for an entire new alternator. $500 easy, with the labor.

 

Well, after thoroughly testing the system this morning. I turn on the ac, the head lights on with AC off, the voltage still kicking 14.4V. However, if I have the AC and headlights on, the car seems to really idle down and shakes a bit but the engine is still running and the voltage goes to 12.8V then back up to 14.4V after about 4 seconds but even at 14.4V the car seems to struggle.
So I am pretty sure it's the alternator, BUT, which component is bad? Brush or regulator? Probably brush since the regulator is still able to maintain 14.4V.

I wonder if the light is on and off b/c the voltage is suppose to be higher like 14.6 or higher and this is why the battery light goes on. Battery is still going strong since the problem started.

Thanks.

 

The 94 shop manual has some tests starting on page 23-113 to do. Download from the spooner link in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section.

Most parts stores will test the battery, alternator, and starter for you. It is a free test and worth a shot to figure out the problem.

The most common problem with the starter is the solenoid and the two contacts. That is a pretty easy DIY.

I would replace both the contacts and solenoid, if you plan on doing this. Here is a place that sells them, just copy and paste into your browser, you'll have to tell them your vehicle info: nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html

A starter repair shop may also stock these items as well. They are rarer to find, but there are still some places that do this kind of work.

 

So you managed to replace that brush kit on the alternator? How did you do it? If you get around 14.5V with the engine running and with different electric loads, that indicates that the alternator is charging about right. I, too, notice slight drop on the idle RPM with sudden increase in electric load, such as headlights and rear window defroster, but not as extreme as yours. I get your kind of idle drop more when I turn on A/C during idle than when I turn on the headlights. I think it's more a matter of idle adjustment than alternator issue. The older the car gets, the rougher the idle gets unfortunately. Cleaning the fuel injector might help.

 

After messing with the alternator, it might be worthwhile to force the ECU to re-learn the idle.

- let the engine cool down completely
- reset ECU (pull battery cable)
- start the engine without touching the gas pedal
- let it warm up completely without touching the gas pedal

 

A method I've used to install a seal over an AC compressor shaft is to cut a short length of 1-liter soft drink bottle and form into an overlapping tube. This should be stiff enough to compress the brushes and allow them to slip over the brass commutators.

It may be necessary to taper the tube slightly to engage the brushes above the commutators and then slide the brush assembly down over the tube. Once in place pull the tube out.

good luck