OK tried another

EGR valve and vacum assembly
ECU
Map sensor
Fuel pressure regulator

Still dies,and had to get it towed home today

 

oh man, the problem continues to evade you. keep trying!

 

How did you narrow down the list to these items?

When your car is not starting is when you will have to diagnose. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on when you try to restart? Even if the fuel pump turns on, that doesn't mean that it is pumping efficiently. You would have to put a fuel pressure gauge on the test port on the fuel rail. There is a way to make an adapter to fit on the fuel rail

I would put a timing light on the ignition and see if the spark generated flashes the timing light.

 

Here is that thread....

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_1.../tm.htm#115539

 

It ended up being the fuel pump. It would start and run fine and then suck crud up through the pickup,since it had no STRAINER attached to the fuel pump. It was just sitting in the tank. Changed the pump,added fresh gas and injector cleaner because I know some crud had to get around. Now it runs way better,idles when coming to a stop. However sometime it has a weak idle.

Hoefully just the FITV.

 

Just got transmission code 13.Anyone know what it means??

 

TCU Code 13 says that there is short in a wire between the ECU and TCU or the baro sensor is bad.

You can download a 94 shop manual from the links listed in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY forum. It has the diagnostic procedures in it.

 

OK swapped out the ECU and put in a Baro sensor I had laying around. No more codes,it just doesnt want to idle when warm. Itll drive fine when its cool,but once its warm and I come to a stop it shuts off. Luckly it will start back up,but only if i give it adequate fuel(since it wont idle on its own).

 

Sounds like you're not getting any air with the throttle plate closed...

 

naaa,cause it also will run a little rough and even if I manually hold the throttle open,it will fluctuate.......