Hey everybody out there I got a 1994 Honda Accord that I've been putting so much work into maybe someone out there can help me out my check engine lights on and it's saying the throttle body positioner I replaced that and it's still throwing the code and high revving at 3,000 RPMs but when I put it into drive it goes back down to 1200 RPMs like normal I've replaced the ECM unit which is stupid I replaced the IAC unit I
replaced the TPS gone through three of them and is still throwing the code for a TPS !! Can anybody help me figure out what I need to do.. would me putting aftermarket products on an original part affect the way my car runs or things line up?

 

Whenever you get a code, the root cause can be from the sensor, the wiring, or the ECU. Since you've replaced sensors several times, the original problem likely wasn't the sensor. A new sensor can be bad out of the box, so hopefully you kept the original parts if they need to be reinstalled for diagnostics.

Do you have a volt meter to do some electrical tests?

Lets start with some basics.

Was any work done on the car not long before you had this issue?

What code(s) is the ECU flashing when you short the service connector?

What are the wire colors for the connector to the map sensor and the tps sensor?

 

The code threw seven check engine blinks which link to my TPS? So what do you think I should do next yes I do have a voltmeter but I don't really know what the specs are supposed to be on the TPS and how do you actually know when you have a bad ECM I have had two mechanics screaming over being a woman of course that's where it started at with my ECM and now I'm going through all this right now I just want my high Rev to go down I put it in to drive and it goes back down to 1200 but when I started up and it gets warm and it stays at 3,000 and keeps going help ASAP its my work transportation 🙏

 

ECUs are tough to diagnose, so it usually is a last resort. Since you swapped the ECUs and still have problems, the ECU is less likely (but your replacement ECU could have some problem too). Did swapping out the ECU change anything? What codes were you getting before and after the ECU swap? What is the part number on the old ECU and new ECU? They start with 37820-XXX-XXX.

The connectors for the TPS and the MAP sensor are identical and close to each other. It is possible that you switched the connectors. Its happened on here before. The TPS wire colors should be grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu. The MAP sensor wire colors should be yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel. It is a quick check and has happened a bit on here.

Normal idle for a 94 accord is 750 rpm when warmed up and about 1200 rpm when cold. 1200 is very high for idle.

 

So my mechanics is the one that told me that I needed a new computer and then after we did the computer then the Iac code throwed so we fixed the IaC and then the TPS through a code and then we changed the tPS twice and now I have a high idle when I start the car cold start is 3000 and continue to stay like that while it's warming up and when it is at warm it is still at 3,000 RPMs it does not go down until I put it into either drive or any of the other gears other than neutral or parts those two gears allow it to be at 3,000 RPMs high rev

 

The next step is to check the wire colors for the map and tps. Let us know if the connecctors are correct, or reversed. If they are reversed, switch the connectors and let us know how the car behaves.

 

All the connectors are plugged in right

 

So right there when I went to go move it it's really loose should I get a new throttle body is there supposed to be play like that

 

The spring should hold a pretty constant pressure on the throttle plate. Its possible the throttle position sensor got installed improperly where it is keeping the throttle plate open. You might want to unbolt the throttle position sensor and see if the throttle plate snaps back in place.