TGuys I really need your help I've been trying to get this thing running now for about a month with no luck. These are the new parts I've added within the last 2 months. I bought it from a guy that the timing belt broke on.

New rebuilt remaned head
Apr head studs
New steel head gasket set
New timng belt with new tensioner
New dorman timing cover set. Had to order bolts from honda
New crakshaft positioning sensor
New iacv vavle
New plugs ,wires
3 used distributors kept swapping at junkyard lol
New coil
New alternator
New battery and new ac and ps belts and tensioners.

So here is my problem the guy who put my head on said let it run for 30 mins to break in the new head before driving it. I actaully let it run for about 40 mins sounded perfect and very quiet and smooth. So after I jumped in it to give it a testdrive. Before I could do anything it died like whined down and died but everything else stayed on. So I started it up again 10 secs later same thing just whined down and died. Now all it will do is just crank and crank all day and never fire. So I began digging.

First a fuel test. Turn the key fuel pump comes on with cel and turns off 2 secs later which tells me the main relay is good. Next I took the hi press line off the fuel rail and put it in a cup. Turned the key and heard it strongly hit the cup plus filled it halfway up. So the pump and filter are good. Also when I crank abot 10 secs I smell gas really bad which tells me injectors are opening. Fuel is not the problem

So next fire so next I took each wire out and tested no fire on any except cylinder 3(odd). So I took the high tension wire off the coil and put a wie on it and plug and I'm getting the blue pulsating spark.(after I reeplaced it). So I started trying all the plugs and wires off the coil and still only wire to cyl 3 is firing . Same off the cap .'so I took the wires back with warranty put the new on and same result. I switched all the wires on the cap and still only # 3 cyl firing. I have switched the distributor 3 times which means 3 igniters too. When I was cranking I got a cel p1382 cyl pos sensor so that's why I replaced it in the first place'but all with the same result and I'm getting power to my distributor so I know my ignitiin switch is good. I have checked every ground and fuse all around the car in accordance to my haynes manual and I'm stumped guys plewase help me'all will be apriciated I'm stuck I don't have a timing light or' test light but I do have a multimeter but I have little experice with it. Please help

 

Just to be thorough, remove the distributor cap. Crank the engine by hand slowly. See if the rotor on the distributor is moving.

 

id get a timing light and try that, but if it was a timing problem it wouldnt have idled right to begin with. have u sat down with all 3 distributors and taken the caps off? checked rotor bugs and ignition stems inside the cap? look for ANY sign of moisture inside them. moisture will foul out fire. sounds to me like its flooding itself out. if youre smelling fuel, then maybe when u got in it to go, it flooded out. it may be another sensor

 

So just an update I went to auto zone this morning and bought a new igniter ,cap, and rotor. Still won't start. I basically just rebuilt that distributor lol well except for the sensors which you can't replace. This is crazy. I have replaced every single part of the ignition system now I just dont get it. hn I put the new cap on I spun the distributor like a million times just yo make sure I did it all right. Still no cells when cranking.

 

Are you still getting spark to one plug? Assuming you're using the right distributor and the CPS is good, another thing I would check is your timing belt to make sure the installation is good and that the tensioner hasn't broke or the belt hasn't slipped etc. If the cams aren't turning then the rotor would only be hitting the plug where it's stuck. Not sure if you're checked to see if the rotor was turning when the engine was turned slowly by hand as PAh suggested in their post above.

 

I had to replace my ECM on my 94EX to fix a Code 9 (OBD1) - Cylinder Position Sensor fault. The code kept returning and check of CPS showed good resistance at the ECM connector. New ECM fixed problem.

Later, I had similar fault CYP or CKP (can't remember which) and again, the ECM turned out to be the problem.

If Check Engine Light is indicating CPS error (you don't say) check resistance of CPS at engine, and again at ECM. If good at both locations, then ECM is likely the problem.

good luck

 

Ok so I just picked up an ecu. Same car same year 1996 4 door accord 2.2Lnon vtech 5 speed I Installed it reset everything and stillnothing. Dam this car lol.also my upper timing cover is off and I can clearly see my cam spinning along with the crank pulley. I even turned it to tdcmto check the timing marks. Dead on. Plus when it was installed with the new head I pretty much supervised the whole thing and mad sure that belt was dam tight. Yes still getting spark to just one plug. I didn't mentiin before that the car has a cold air'intake with straight pipe exhaust to an apexi n1 muffler and a strut tower bar. But that's kinda besides the point. Anthing else guys keep these ideas coming trust me there greatly appriciated.

 

Did you check the resistance of the CPS as mentioned by TexasH? If your sensor is good then perhaps the reluctors on the pulley are not being read? A bad connector or connection from the CPS? Sure sounds like a CPS, pulley issue to me.

 

I just want you to check that the rotor is actually moving, since only #3 is getting a spark.

When you see odd electrical problems, my first thought is to check the grounds. G101 is on the upper part of the intake manifold opposite of the throttle body. Make sure that it is clean and a secure connection.

 

Well the rotor is spinning around along with the rest of my engine and I cleaned the g101 as suggested along with the main ground off the battery that connects to my tyranny housing. Still no change but I'm wondering. Is it possible to test or replace the pickup inside the distributor that's underneath the icm. I see it and can see the screws to take it out but do the wires in it come out some how? Does it unplug? I just think it could be my problem since I've basically just rebuilt the distributor except for that part. If I'm getting spark out of the coil but not out of but one plug wire its gotta be in that distributor. Its the only thing in between the 2. What ya think? Can someone please provide me with complete instructions on how to test the cps sensor resistance with a multi meter? Do.I test to ground or just to the plug? I'm a newb at car elect testing.
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