I REMOVE THE EVAPORATOR. IT HAVE A LEAK.SO I WILL REPLACE IT. I AM PLANNING TO REPLACE THE EXPANSION VALVE TOO. SHOULD I REPLACE THE RECEIVER DRIER TOO? IF DO; HOW MUCH PAG OIL IHAVE TO PUT IN THE SYSTEM (LOW VISCOSITY 46?).WHAT KIND OF PUMP I NEED TO EVACUATE THE SYSTEM AND HOW MUCH TIME IT NEED? DO I REPLACE THE OIL BEFORE THE EVACUATION OR WHEN I ADD THE REFRIGERANT HELP!!!!!!!!

 

Turn off the caps. Easier to read.

Replace all the orings in the fittings attaching expansion valve to the evaporator. Replace all the orings in the system connections also. Use a good oring lubricant such as Nylog.

If system has been open or unused for a substantial length of time, the receiver/drier should be replaced.

Honda manuals are a bit obtuse on thesystem capacity and instead give individual capacities of all components. When you add them up, you get ~ 8 oz (US). If you want to use PAG, get some double-ended PAG. I like the ester oils (BAV100) and have used in a Accord and Subaru Forester w/ good success. Both types are available from ackits.com at reasonable prices. Oil should be installed prior to closing the system for evacuation.

A good quality vacuum pump is necessary to evacuate the system before charging. Vacuum for at least 30 minutes after establishing the system is leak free (no vacuum drop w/i 5 minutes is my personal standardr

Add 23 oz +0/-2 oz of R134a. A scale is best way to avoid overcharging since 2-14 oz cans will overcharge the system. If your wife has one of the precision "calorie" scales, these are excellent for measuring precise charge wt by zeroing the "tare" adjustment before charging. Charge will register as - grams or other units.

good luck

 

Thank you TexasHonda. Some people sayi should flush the system . what do you think? do the evacuation do this? to do the leak test , what do i have to do?

 

If you're repairing simply due to a evaporator leak, no need to flush. Flushing introduces solvents that can be difficult to remove and unnecessary if there is no debris in the system. When you pullthe evaporator and drain the oil content, look for any debris. Same w/ receiver/drier. This is a judgement call. Some people say always flush, but I've found that removing all the solvents can be difficult since you must install new lubricant before vacuuming. Once the solvents are mixed w/ lubricant they cannot be "vacuum dried".

Vacuum leak test is performed w/ evacuation. As soon as vacuum level stablizes on manifold gauge (2-5 minutes max), close the manifold gauges valves and watch the vacuum level. It should stay steady for at least 5 minutes. If it begins to drop immediately, you have a leak somewhere to find and repair. Don't charge if you cannot hold a steady vacuum as you'll be back recharging again shortly.

Once you have steady vacuum indication, reopen manifold valves and allow vacuum pump to evacuate the system for 30 mintues. This is a very important step, as any condensed moisture in the system is removed by vacuuming.

Final key step is getting the correct amount of R134a into the system. Then you can enjoy cool air for several years w/o problems.

I've found AC repair to be the most rewarding, both financially and personally, of any of the DiY work I've done. It's a skill that really pays off through the years.

good luck